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ABS printing fails


Framar

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Posted · ABS printing fails

Hello Ultimaker Community, 

 

I tried to print an ABS cover for a dry box I want to use when printing with PVA. even though I’m using Ultimaker ABS on an Ultimaker S5 with Ultimaker Cura recommended settings I got this… I’m very disappointed that it is not coming out any better.

I would have expect using all Ultimaker’s stuff would give the best results. I mean, even the Ultimaker PLA on the S5 resulted in bad print.. Is the printer bad? Is it the material? the settings?

 

(printed using 0,8mm Print Core AA on Glass bed using 3D lac)

 

Any clue? Thanks!

 

Dry box top.stl

 

 

IMG_7316.JPG

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IMG_7318.JPG

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    Posted · ABS printing fails

    You layer bonding is very bad, so I guess you print too cold and/or too fast. Slow down your print speed (try 30 or 40mm/sec), and try increasing the print temperature 5-10° C. Because you are printing with the 0.8 print core you need more flow, and if you now also print too fast, you have to adjust your print temperature that the nozzle can melt the material faster.

     

    Additionally, keep your environment temperature warm. Even if you have the glass doors, if the room is too cold, the cold air gets also inside the printer and could cause such issues. You can also try to cover the top of the printer with a big towel or something like that. 

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    Posted · ABS printing fails

    I reprinted the part using Ultimaker White Tought PLA and while the part is looking better it still shows some under extrusion. I did tuned the print by reducing print speed and increasing the plastic flow on the S5 in the middle of the print but the print is barely acceptable. I think that this is mainly caused by starting to print after retraction. Is there a setting that can be used to prime the nozzle after retraction?

     

    So far printing with 0,8mm print core results in 100% rejected part...

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    Posted · ABS printing fails

    Try a small test cube with the same wall thickness, and then while printing adjust settings on the fly: play with temperature, speed, flow-rate,... So you can immediately see what the result is, without wasting too much material.

     

    I once read that for ABS you might need to increase the flow rate, since this material is more elastic and thus the feeder wheel might stretch the little indents it creates, making diamond shapes instead of squares. This might result in a lower real flow rate than the feeder wheel's speed would indicate. Maybe try 110% and then adjust as required? (This in combination with the suggestions above: slower speed, higher nozzle temp, and higher environment temp.)

     

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