Stringing's got me beat...

[gwatson1990 1]

I recently switched to an E3D V6 all metal hot end clone which I ended up buying a high end heater block and polished titanium throat for anyways for my  Ender 3. Prior to this I had never had any issues with stringing nor did I have to spend much time tuning retraction settings for any of the filaments I used save PETG. After switching to the V6 I've been having almost non stop stringing issues with my Ender using PLA. I've tried 3 different types of filaments... Hatchbox PLA (Black), 3D Solutech PLA (Green), and Eryone PLA (Marble). Just before swapping hot ends I did a 10+ hour print with the 3D Solutech and it was retraction heavy, but gave me no issues. Now, I've tried anywhere from .75mm to 6mm of retraction from speeds 10mm/s to 100mm/s and I cannot get it to stop stringing in the least. I'm currently testing the Eryone PLA , but it's looking like its going to be the same problem. However, the Hatchbox gave me virtually no strings at 2mm retraction at 70mm/s. I've printed each one of these filaments at 185C hot nozzle temp to reduce temp related oozing as well. So did these two filaments just suddenly absorb to much moisture? They are both less that 4 months old and actually... the Hatchbox is almost a year old and I never stored it in a bag. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

[ahoeben 1,948]

Stringing is not indicative of moist filament. The most common solution to stringing is to print at a lower temperature.

[gwatson1990 1]

Already lower than 185? I used to print the 3D Solutech at 205 and up and and the Eryone  at 190 and never got any stringing. Is it necessary to print at a lower temp with an E3D style hot end?

Edited October 3, 2019 by gwatson1990

[johnse 31]

It is possible that the temperature being reported may be different from your previous hot end. Did the new one come with a different temp sensor? Is it positioned differently? Is it compatible?

 

I was upgrading a Monoprice Ultimate for flexible printing and the Flexion extruder came with a heater block that did not have a thru hole for the PT100 sensor. I tried using another thermistor (and updating Marlin for it) but it never read properly and the hotend would get WAY to hot. I wound up getting a different heater block and using the original sensor. (Apparently PT100s need a different input circuit.)

 

Someone else here has a printer that reads 50C too low so prints at an indicated 160C. He had to put a code in his start gcode to allow “cold extrusion”.

 

So try printing a temperature tower and try some lower temps.

 

 

[gwatson1990 1]

I updated my Marlin firmware to reflect the change in my thermistor and heater cartridge. I used the thermistor that came with my multi-meter to verify that the temperature was reading correctly (placing it at the same point as the printer's thermistor) and my firmware is reading +/- 5C  of  actual, which I think is the most that somebody with a lower-end printer can ask for in my opinion. If I go much lower my layer adhesion really starts to tank... 

[gwatson1990 1]

----Solved----

 

After finding better placement for my multimeter thermistor (inside the nozzle) I found a 15-25 degree lower temperature difference between what was displayed and the actual. I changed the temp sensor in Marlin and now I'm reading +/- ~1C. So, I was actually printing way to cold and the filament wasn't behaving properly. Thank y'all for your input!