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  1. I have an E3D V6 with the all metal hotend and I'm enjoying it, but I've noticed that there are some brands of PLA (Mainly ESUN) that refuse to print without jamming no matter what settings I try to use. I'd like to branch out past HatchBox and 3D Solutech brands of PLA , but I don't want massive amounts of buyers remorse if I can avoid it! Does anyone have any suggestions or experiences with PLA brands that they've had great experiences with when using an E3D V6? Also what is it that makes some brands of PLA jam and others not?
  2. What printer do you have and what brand of ABS were you using?
  3. Have you tried contacting E3D about this issue? I just remembered your using a geared extruder which I'm not familiar with using so I don't know how that could be effecting the way you do you retractions but, they might know exactly what's going on here. Also if you haven't verified your hot-end temperature is displaying accurately I would recommend you do so if you are able.
  4. You might be able to save yourself the trouble of altering your design by switching the material your printing with. If your are able, I would recommend using ABS for something like this. While a lot of people will tout PETG to be as capable as ABS, it really isn't. PETG is a lot more brittle and less impact resistant than ABS and has very little give causing it to snap easily. ABS will give you that snap fit you are looking for without compromising on the design.
  5. My Cura has magically reset some settings before when trying to print pots, vases etc... If you haven't already you can double check these settings: Top Layers (should be set to 0); Infill (set to 0); Print thin walls.
  6. I'll definitely look into it although I'm not a big PETG fan (but I'm interested in trying PA!). To expand on my situation a little more it seems that my issue could be related to lesser quality filament. When using Hatchbox and 3D Solutech PLA's, I was having great success with 6 hour plus prints! However, my frustrations really got started when I bought a 2 pack of SUNLU PLA + in grey and black, which as far as I know has a sup-par rap and it might be better for me to just send the rolls back.
  7. Yes, before the V6 I had a PTFE heatbreak which was very forgiving. I recently noticed that the mounting set up I was using wasnt allowing the fan to properly mount in the heat sync so I'm hoping that will help.
  8. I recently installed a E3D V6 all metal hot-end on my Ender and I've been wrestling with it quite a bit when printing PLA. I'm a bit confused with what works better... I've read in some places that you should print 10-15C hotter than you normally would with PLA (https://letsprint3d.net/all-metal-hotends-troubleshooting-guide/). Yet, when it comes to addressing partial clogs or jams I'm told to print cooler to prevent heat creep. Anybody willing to share their experiences?
  9. Previously this was not needed though, which is why I'm puzzled a bit. Is it due to the design or is there an issue with my hardware?
  10. Unsure if this company distributes in Europe, but I've been using IC3D's ABS for some time now and it is top notch. I've also taken a tour of their facility (it's close to home) and their Q.C. is on point!
  11. Don't know much about the printer but it looks to be a Prusa clone of sorts. You could probably start by picking the Prusa I3 profile and adjust the bed size as needed in the profile. I would also make sure that your retraction is set to less than 3mm as the Pulse looks to have an E3D hot-end and you wouldn't want to risk a jam with PLA (not sure if it's all metal though). Hope this helps! If you haven't done this already lol
  12. Set your infill to 0% and top layers to 0. That should do it, but double check it in the print preview before printing.
  13. Z-Hop may help then and it doesn't take much... When I switched to an E3D V6 on my Ender it seemed as if the heat radiating from the nozzle mixed with its proximity to the printed material was causing the nozzle to pull from the material already printed and then crossing over and the hop eliminated about 98% of that issue (This is with a Bulls-eye duct. as well) That might explain why no amount of setting combos were working.
  14. If you haven't tried these yet, they've helped me in certain applications. If you are using Cura make sure Combing is turned on and try a z-hop of 0.1mm. This is all done using the lowest temperature that you can reliably print with a given filament.
  15. I recently switched to and E3D v6 on my Ender 3 and I'm running Cura 4.3. I've never had any issues with stringing until now with PLA, but after the switch it took me a while to get the stringing down to an acceptable level (Small hairs that can be blasted with a heat gun). The changes in my other settings I could make sense of such as shorter retractions and slower retract speeds, but what I can't figure out is why I suddenly need Z-hop to get the same results as the stock hotend. Is there something that I may be overlooking in my Cura settings or a difference in the hot ends that require the
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