Already lower than 185? I used to print the 3D Solutech at 205 and up and and the Eryone at 190 and never got any stringing. Is it necessary to print at a lower temp with an E3D style hot end?
Edited by gwatson1990It is possible that the temperature being reported may be different from your previous hot end. Did the new one come with a different temp sensor? Is it positioned differently? Is it compatible?
I was upgrading a Monoprice Ultimate for flexible printing and the Flexion extruder came with a heater block that did not have a thru hole for the PT100 sensor. I tried using another thermistor (and updating Marlin for it) but it never read properly and the hotend would get WAY to hot. I wound up getting a different heater block and using the original sensor. (Apparently PT100s need a different input circuit.)
Someone else here has a printer that reads 50C too low so prints at an indicated 160C. He had to put a code in his start gcode to allow “cold extrusion”.
So try printing a temperature tower and try some lower temps.
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I updated my Marlin firmware to reflect the change in my thermistor and heater cartridge. I used the thermistor that came with my multi-meter to verify that the temperature was reading correctly (placing it at the same point as the printer's thermistor) and my firmware is reading +/- 5C of actual, which I think is the most that somebody with a lower-end printer can ask for in my opinion. If I go much lower my layer adhesion really starts to tank...
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After finding better placement for my multimeter thermistor (inside the nozzle) I found a 15-25 degree lower temperature difference between what was displayed and the actual. I changed the temp sensor in Marlin and now I'm reading +/- ~1C. So, I was actually printing way to cold and the filament wasn't behaving properly. Thank y'all for your input!
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ahoeben 1,981
Stringing is not indicative of moist filament. The most common solution to stringing is to print at a lower temperature.
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