Different times for different printers

[jeff62 0]

 My son has a CR-10 and a Prusa I8 printer and he lets me use them. Recently he moved out of the house and took his CR-10 with him. I had a larger part on Cura 4.3.0 software the time to print the part was 23 hours 29 minutes. That's when I noticed I had the wrong printer selected. So I selected the Prusa I3 and the time for that print was 11 hours and 3 minutes. Never changed any settings, just printer. The question I have is what changed?

Thanks Jeff

[gr5 2,172]

Probably the layer height.  A difference of 2X usually means a layer height difference of 2X.

[gr5 2,172]

You'll have to look at each parameter but the most likely ones:

layer height

line width

infill percentage

shell width

print speeds (there are like 7 speeds)

 

[tinkergnome 927]

41 minutes ago, jeff62 said:

Never changed any settings, just printer. The question I have is what changed?

 

For the sake of completeness: technically all settings have changed. Because every configured printer has a separate complete stack of settings which automatically loads when a printer is selected from the list.

 

[jeff62 0]

Thanks all who have replied. Is there a file I can read about the preference to each printer and where is it located? 

 

The real reason I'm curious is when we started with the old obsolete Prusa i8  years ago, we like all others had a hard time getting PLA to stick to the plate. We finally settled on white glue. Stuck well on glass but still took a lot of effort to get off.

 

My brother in-law had been telling for 6 months to try some cast aluminum, he thought that would work. One day he comes by with a piece of  1/4" cast aluminum, smallest thickness you can buy. We replaced the original aluminum with the cast aluminum. I print out a 2" x 4" project box (PLA) that night using the white glue on the glass like always. Go to take it off and it stuck like glue. Stuck so well that it took a 12" piece of glass with it. The glass was perfectly flat with the box, so at least I could still  use the box.

 

I printed out another box (PLA) on the cast aluminum, no glass no white glue. That stuck extremely well also. Next I tried the box on the glass (tuned up side down and cleaned) with no glue. That work great. No edges lifted and it took very little effort to get off. It was the like the part was vacuumed to the glass. In fact a little lite tap would release it and if it feel back done on it's bottom you could feel a lite kind of vacuum or friction on it. All you had to do is clean the glass before using it and you could walk away knowing it would work. Finally a dream come true.

 

So when my son purchased CR_10, the first thing I did was to purchase the same cast aluminum my brother in-law got. Same manufacture same company. Imagine my disappointment when I couldn't get the same result as I had on the Prusa i8.   

 

After months and months of the printers side by side trying to see what was different between the two, I finally gave up.

 

There was a happy ending though. My son took the CR-10 with him and left the Prusa i8 with me. 

 

If any one is interest, I believe the firmware on the Prusa i8 is version 1.8x and I'm using Cura 4.x. Also, I never tried printing anything but PLA on the printer.

 

Thanks Jeff

[jeff62 0]

Hi tinkergnome,

  You statement brings up a question I always wondered about.

  I know the printer has setting for it and then you can store settings in on board memory. Finally you can change settings in your slicer program (I always used Cura).

  So my question is which has the priority over all? I would thing the slicer program would  overrule memory and memory would overrule the printer. Is that right?

  Thanks again Jeff

[tinkergnome 927]

22 minutes ago, jeff62 said:

I would thing the slicer program would  overrule memory and memory would overrule the printer. Is that right?

 

Basically yes.

There are always exceptions but those are probably negligible under normal circumstances.

• Every printer firmware  supports a specific set of gcode commands and any setting that can be changed with a gcode will use the new value until the next reboot.
• On most printers many of the changeable settings can be stored in EEPROM and will survive a reboot then.
• There are fix configuration options as well, those can only be changed if one customizes the firmware. For example axis directions, moving limits, position of limit switches and such...

[jeff62 0]

Thanks for clearing that up for me tinkergnome. Even though I've been playing with 3d printing for years, I'm still such a novice.

 

 

[tinkergnome 927]

4 hours ago, jeff62 said:

Thanks for clearing that up for me tinkergnome. Even though I've been playing with 3d printing for years, I'm still such a novice.

 

You're welcome. That's what we all are...

I think regarding the 3D-printing electronics and software we are still experiencing the very first steps of many interesting possibilities.
I guess even high end printers will appear as dumb as a stump in a few years...

The printers - mind you - not we ourselves hopefully...🙂

[jeff62 0]

  I'm thinking about buying a new printer. Either CR-10 or the Tevo Tornado which looks like a copy cat of the CR-10 with some upgrades. I was printing a part on the Prusa i8 and the time to print on Cura 4.3.0 is 4 hours 30 minutes.

 So then I thought I wonder how long it would take on the Tornado. I added to the printers list. 11 hours and 55 minutes. The CR-10, 7 hours 39 minutes.

  Nothing changed in the Cura settings, just chose a different print. I know how well the CR-10 prints and I imagine the quality well be the same for the Tornado. But that extra 4 hours and 15 minutes is a big difference.

  Have to do more research. Jeff