Jump to content

Printing with PETG


Recommended Posts

Posted · Printing with PETG

When you say which problems you have printing PETG it would be easier. But be aware that here are not Ender experts, so we can only give you some general advices.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Printing with PETG

    And this is general advice...

    It's a "practice" thing too.  I found that nozzle temperature varies more by color using PETG.  Some colors can get pretty stringy and have to be run cooler and slower.  Warping becomes more of an issue as long narrow features want to lift off the bed.

    Make sure that your new Bowden tube is cut exactly square, and that the nozzle butts up against the tube just before it makes contact with the inner steel tube of the hot end.  You want a good seal there.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted (edited) · Printing with PETG

    I havent bought any Petg filament yet but was wondering if anyone here had any info on basic upgrades other than the bowden tube. I understand that the stock bowden will degrade with the higher temps that Petg requires. My hot end will go to 20 so I think I'm ok there. I guess I'll just buy some and play around with it. Thanks! 

    Edited by bigone5500
  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Printing with PETG

    If you do a search on ThingiVerse for Mouse Ears you will come across some that you can download.  They are like poker chips.  With your part in the slicer, you add a mouse ear to the end of long thin parts of the print at bed level.  Think of an octopus arm with a catchers mitt on the end.  The poker chip doesn't tend to warp upward although they will need to be trimmed off later.

    There is a bit of a learning curve with PETG.  Mostly, you have to learn how not to burn yourself on the bed or nozzle.  You'll be running them very hot.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Posted · Printing with PETG

    PETG should be no problem for a printer, the bed is 10-20°C hotter than with PLA and the nozzle maybe 30°C, so there is no need to do special upgrades. Also the stock bowden would be enough.

     

    The problem or learning curve is to get a good bed adhesion and there are several solutions, like mouse ears or glue stick, sprays and so on.

     

    It can also help to put the printer in an enclosure and keep the air warm inside.

  • Link to post
    Share on other sites

    Create an account or sign in to comment

    You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

    Create an account

    Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

    Register a new account

    Sign in

    Already have an account? Sign in here.

    Sign In Now
    • Our picks

      • UltiMaker Cura 5.8 Stable released 🎉
        In the Cura 5.8 stable release, everyone can now tune their Z seams to look better than ever. Method series users get access to new material profiles, and the base Method model now has a printer profile, meaning the whole Method series is now supported in Cura!
        • 5 replies
      • Introducing the UltiMaker Factor 4
        We are happy to announce the next evolution in the UltiMaker 3D printer lineup: the UltiMaker Factor 4 industrial-grade 3D printer, designed to take manufacturing to new levels of efficiency and reliability. Factor 4 is an end-to-end 3D printing solution for light industrial applications
          • Thanks
          • Like
        • 3 replies
    ×
    ×
    • Create New...