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petermeuris

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Posted · First results

I have printed my first test objects All suggestions are welcomed.

6977184375_a07c052f32.jpg

So, here are my prints, 0.3mm layers, infill 30-70%, PLA 250°C:

- ReplicatorG with marlin firmware.

- Firmware: Marlin generated with BuildMeMarlin (awesome work Daid!), default settings exept baudrate/endswitches

Some problems:

1) Some times layers do not stick together. Too little material was extruded, filling factor not high enough ?

I just sometimes had to push the filament a bit manually. I cannot yet figure out how the extruder motor mechanism is supposed to clamp the thread anyway.

2) At start the PLA does not stick to the blue tape.

So ... way to go :-)

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    Posted · First results

    I use slic3r, and I use the following settings:

     

    bottom_layer_speed_ratio = 0.5duplicate_distance = 6duplicate_x = 1duplicate_y = 1end_gcode = M104 S0 ; turn off temperatureG1 Z+30 F3000;move Z up a bit and retract filament by 5mmG28 X0 Y0; home X axis and Y axisM84     ; disable motorsM107 ; turn fan offfilament_diameter = 2.95extrusion_multiplier = 1fill_angle = 45fill_density = 0.2fill_pattern = rectilinearfirst_layer_height_ratio = 1infill_every_layers = 1layer_height = 0.1nozzle_diameter = 0.4perimeter_feed_rate = 50perimeters = 2print_center = 100,100print_feed_rate = 50retract_before_travel = 0retract_length = 0retract_lift = 0retract_restart_extra = 0retract_speed = 40rotate = 0scale = 1skirt_distance = 20skirt_height = 1skirts = 2solid_fill_pattern = rectilinearsolid_layers = 4start_gcode = M92 X78.7402 Y78.7402 E926G28 ; home all axesM106 ; turn fan ontemperature = 220travel_feed_rate = 150use_relative_e_distances = 0z_offset = 0acceleration = 0

     

    If you can print with these settings, then I am sure you can get a good and decent print :)

    Onliest thing you need to change is the layer height. I could get up to 0.015, but then you manually need to make it stick to the bed. 0.05 is usually enough for high-quality prints. Note that it doesnt prevent it from stringing.

    If you use skeinforge, try printing with the profiles that came with the repG software. They should work properly.

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    Posted · First results

    With SkeinPyPy your settings should be right. So that's not it. You have serious under-extrusion. Most likely your filament is slipping. They look a lot like my first prints, which also had slipping problems.

    Make sure your tension knob is tight enough.

    Make sure your big gear is firmly attached to the bolt. (This was my problem)

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    Posted · First results

    @Daid:

    - I agree that this is serious under extrusion, i did not use the SkeinPyPy yet, I was using repG after I upgraded the firmware.

    (I tried SkeinPyPy, I could check the SkeinPyPy settings, but was not able to find the executable to run the machine -linux version)

    - This tension knob how is it kept in place ? see photo

    6977507139_ce55150e00.jpg

    I think I miss something if I turn the tension knob, the wooden/plastic part is not pushing the thread, it pushes the wooden/platic part out ...

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    Posted · First results

    Thank you that helped a lot. It turned out that the little piece of white plastic was mounted upside down.

    Therefore there is no (firm) grip at all at the filament.

    Stupid me :-)

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    Posted · First results

    Yet another "Problem->Solved under 24h" thread. :)

    This forum is awesome!

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    Posted · First results
    Yet another "Problem->Solved under 24h" thread. :)

    This forum is awesome!

    It ain't solved until we see a standard calibration Yoda printed ;-)

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    Posted · First results

    I just printed another Yoda.

    75mm/s, 10% infill, 0,1mm layer hight, Printed at 250*c from SD-card. Took about 4,5h to print.

    Sliced with SkeinPyPy Beta3.

    The problem on top of the head is that the Z platform tried to go to home position after the print was completed with the hot extruder placed right above the head.... :evil:

    I don't know if that is due to that I might have pressed home button in GUI during print and that it was buffered and action taken when the SD-print was completed or if somethings wrong in the SD-print.

    It seems like it ignores the homing of the axes when starting a print from SD.

    Still uncleaned when I took the pictures.

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    Posted · First results

    OOch !

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    Posted · First results

    My next print is clearly better, the problem is solved.

    6979950959_a8b53c630c.jpg

    But it stopped in the middle, due to extruder switched off maxT is reached.

    What happened, the connection at the extrusion head of the thermocouple was decoupled

    during printing, and overheated the system. Good it went down.

    But now ....another problem, none of the switches are working anymore !

    T control is fine, motors are fine, but none of the switches.

    Kind of annoying. Any help?

    :-)

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    Posted · First results
    But now ....another problem, none of the switches are working anymore !

    T control is fine, motors are fine, but none of the switches.

    Kind of annoying. Any help?

    :-)

    I've seen that happen with my print. My procedure to fix it is:

    -Close down the printing software (RepG or PrintRun)

    -Turn off the machine

    -Disconnect the USB

    -Turn on the machine

    -Connect the USB

    -Start the printing software

    -Connect

    Not sure what's causing it yet...

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    Posted · First results

    I tried this several times with repG, no success yet.

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    Posted · First results

    Just to be sure that it is not the firmware, can you use the Marlin Build 3 that is included in the repG software? I am possibly thinking that the endstop switches are not correct in your firmware.

    Just closing & restarting repG only wont help, you need to physically disconnect the Ultimaker to make sure its reset (its what I call a hard reset, only need to do this when the Arduino goes into panic mode).

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