Anyone?
On 9/28/2020 at 11:15 PM, TinaBakir1210 said:Does the actual printbed need to be level
Yes, the whole print bed needs to be plain and correctly leveled, otherwise the distance is just correct in one place but not on the other side of the bed. Cheap Chinese printers have often the problem that the bed is not plain and if I remember correctly the Ender has 4 screws to level which is more difficult as when you have just 3 screws.
Regarding your other issues, I think there is something mechanical with your printer. When you use just a default profile without changing a lot of parameters you should get a much better result. The Ender can produce good prints if you have luck, but it needs some tinkering to get there. But I don't know the Ender printer, so I cannot give you a hint what could be the problem, except the bed leveling.
I've opened the STL-files and can't see anything wrong with them... the 3MF-file contains only the objects, not the printer setting (choose for SAVE PROJECT, not EXPORT)...
- Leveling the bed of an Ender printer is not that difficult, you do need to have the patience to do it right! I have a Ender 3 Pro and I had to level the bed only 2 or 3 times... first time when I bought the printer, second time when I switched from the flex magnetic bed to a steel flex plate with Lokbuild! The third time when I thought there was something wrong with my printer but instead it was the role of PLA that I was using!
* Check if the printer is build the way it should be, everything has to align... there are lots of YoouTube videos explaining how to build an Ender printer and where to pay extra attention too
* Check the tension of the belts, too loose will result in bad printings!
* Check bed-level... sometimes you have to level the bed a few times to get good result. For my Eder 3 pro I use 2 GCode-files, 1 that moves the nozzle to every corner and center of the buildplate (for leveling) and 1 that prints squares to see if the bed-leveling is done correct or maybe needs some tweaking. Chuck Hellebuyck is the guy who made this files. Files and explanation how they work can be found on his website: https://www.chepclub.com/bed-level.html
If you re-upload the 3MF-file I will take a look at it again... But first make sure the hardware is ok, then play with the settings in the software (slicer)...
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Mari 38
attach the STL or better the project file (3MF) that contains the to print object and your printer settings... the screenshots of your settings are simply to small to read!
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TinaBakir1210 0
Here are the STLs to both of them. Thank you soooooo much for responding. I'm feeling so defeated. I know other people who have the same machine, same settings and they can print it fine! I just replaced the nozzle as well, and put in a new roll of filament. I already like this gray better than the black!
Warp-floor_cutout.stl Warp-floor_solid.stl ForMari.3mf
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