Why not just use a single layer brim instead? 20 or 30 loops around the outside of the object should help hold it down, and be pretty easy to remove.
Why not just use a single layer brim instead? 20 or 30 loops around the outside of the object should help hold it down, and be pretty easy to remove.
I think I'll give that a go tomorrow. I'll also try the glue stick method too. Thanks
I think I'll give that a go tomorrow. I'll also try the glue stick method too.
In the photos it looks like you *did* use gluestick.
I much prefer brim over raft. Also I recommend raising your print bed a little warmer to 110C to keep the ABS above the glass temp. You can test this: put a thin piece (preferably flat) of filament on the glass when it is at 110C. Let it sit there for 5 minutes and then try to bend it. It should bend into a new shape. If the heated bed is at 90C it should *not* bend. Being above the glass temp means the shrinkage stresses are spread out more throughout the softer material and so it stays on the bed better. The fan can wreck this though - some people use zero fan for large ABS parts.
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simon 1
Second print was excellent, warping reduced to a minimum using the raft and no more under extrusion. Only problem is removing the raft material. It has to be said the Afinia made a much better job of raft and support material. The Raft would just peel off easily with Afinia leaving a perfect surface. On the UM2 the raft material seems impossible to remove without sanding it down. This is a major disappointment. I've got to find another way to make the part stick without using a raft.
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