Thank you @gr5. So the Cheetah should work ok with the S5 you think?
Thank you @gr5. So the Cheetah should work ok with the S5 you think?
Yes. It's much stiffer. I'm sure you can get ninjaflex to work but Cheetah will be so much easier. Or this:
https://ultimaker.com/materials/tpu-95a
Thanks I ordered up some of the Ultimaker TPU-95A to try out.
If you decide it's not flexible enough there are many formulations (like ninjaflex) that are more flexible. But they get harder to print as it's like "pusing on a string". Adding oil really helps. A lot. Everyone is afraid to do it. They think it will mess up their print somehow. It won't.
@gr5 Thanks for the tips. Would you mind breaking down the oil process on where you are applying and what type? Going to give this a go here in next couple of days.
I use 3-in-one oil but any light mineral oil will work fine. "sewing machine" oil is another good option. Some printers come with something-lube? I forget but that's fine also.
One drop per meter of filament is good. Put one drop on before you feed into feeder. You should see microdrops of oil all along the bowden.
I add one drop every meter of filament fed. I place the back of the printer over the edge of a table and unspool 2 meters of filament (one meter to floor, one mater back up to feeder). This is for ninjaflex which hangs like string. Ever hour or so (depending how fast you print) I unspool another meter and add a drop just below the feeder and it slides down the filament.
This allows you to print faster than without the oil. Even with the oil - if I'm making a gasket that needs zero underextrusion (or the gasket will leak) then I print at 10mm/sec. With ultimaker TPU you don't have to do any of this as it's much stiffer. I'm not sure it will even hang down like string the way ninjaflex does.
@gr5 Thanks for the great information. I am going to give it a go as the material sounds much closer to what I am looking for. Looks like they sell it in 2.85 also (some places don't seem to have that size). Have you found a good print core temp on the S5 that works the best? Also are you able to use the AA 0.4 core ok or does it need the 0.8 to flow? Thanks
Edited by danmiles01I haven't printed ninjaflex for several years - since before I got my S5 (which was right when it came out). But I've printed it on an Ultimaker 2 just fine with 0.4mm nozzle.
Some people also lower the feeder pressure - no need to squeeze the hell out of it as it goes through the feeder. I didn't bother messing with this. If you do change it, don't forget to change it back afterwards! If you forget you will get major underextrusion when you go back to PLA.
When searching for filament, search for both "2.85" and "3mm" as people often call it 3mm filament even though it's usually 2.85. But other sellers call it "2.85". Or even "2.9" I have found that EVERY manufacturer that makes either size of filament makes both sizes.
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gr5 2,097
There are lots of rubbery materials to print with. You could print epu-40 or epu-41 or you could print with ninjaflex or cheetah (both from ninjatek). Cheetah is recommended as it's much easier to print because it's slightly less flexible. epu-41 is so flexible it's hard to push down the bowden of an S5 even with adding some oil to the bowden (yes, it helps to add a drop of oil and does not affect the print result in any way).
Also look at TPU materials. I think Ultimaker sells a TPU. Many of these materials are a type of TPU or TPC.
Of all the materials I mentioned so far, probably epu-41 is the most flexible and I suspect the hardest to print. The differences are small and for most needs, Cheetah is flexible enough. It depends on what you will use it for. That epu-41 elongation at break is only 250%. Cheetah is 580%. So all the materials are a little different.
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