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Ultimaker 2 failed extruder in less than a week

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Hi there,

I got an Ultimaker 2 recently.

I have been using the machine for the last one week. I made some successful prints using PLA blue. What is unfortunate is that the material feeder has lost its tension. I tried adjusting the screw in the extruder mechanism but to no avail. As it stands, even though the gap between the stepper knurl and the white head is small inserting material is no longer tough. The day i got the printer it was very difficult to push the mateiral in. Now, its very easy. The material reaches upto the extruder but not past the extruder head. I tried removing the bowden and pushed filament by hand which worked. This squarely leaves to failure of extruder mecahnism.

Now, If i try to print, the small nut on the stepper connecting the knurl becomes loose and the stepper just stops. For now, the machine is down and i have some important prints to do.

Overall the machine looks good from the outside but i am deeply concerned about the build quality. I waited for UM2 more than a month. I am not sure whether its worth the wait.

1) Have any of you faced a similar problem

2) Is there an assembly instruction for UM2 feeder. I am still not sure how the adjustment screw inside the assembly works. It just keeps on rotating as i try to tighten it.

Your help is much appreciated.

Uma

 

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did you open up the casing of the extruder and check it out ?

one little thing i learned is... when you open the casing make sure you take off the protective metal housing infront of the motor inside the printer.. other wise when you take the screws out of the housing... the motor can actually fall out.. oppps... just as a tip !

Ian :-)

 

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I suspect you have to remove the cover of the extruder because you need to push that knurled part further in before tightening the set screw that holds it. Make sure that set screw is very tight.

There are 4 screws holding the cover on - take all 4 out but beware the motor will fall so hold the stepper as you do this. This is a pretty easy fix so don't be scared.

 

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Thanks for the pictures. I had already opened the casing of the extruder (after removing the white shield etc). From what i see compared to the pictures (link in illuminarti's reply) the metal screw (used for tensioning may be?) is not standing as proud as shown in the pictures. Also, i tried tightening the small screw which attaches the knurl as much as i can but the story repeats. Not sure where i went wrong. Should the tensioner screw stand proud or driven in?

Uma

 

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This does not make sense. The tiny screw needs to be very very tight. I think you just aren't tightening it enough. Tighten it so much that you are afraid of breaking the screwdriver/hexdriver.

The white roller should be close to the lowest tension - the white square that shows through the left side should be near the top.

 

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@gr5 you absolutely makes sense. Thats what i thought as well. The white square is at the top and the white roller is close to the lowest tension. But what i suspect is the broken hex head in the tiny screw. The allen key slips right after two turns. Would you mind posting a picture of your extruder gearing mechanism. I just want to know how proud is the tiny screw?

I guess there is no standard part number fo the screw. I hope the Ultimaker guys come to my rescue.

Uma

 

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I think you should show a video of the problem.

1) Does the knurled piece spin or is it tight with the motor now?

2) I see no problem with the other screw - it should be able to control tension. Can you demonstrate the problem as everything sounds great except that your knurled piece seemed to be slipping.

 

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I had my Ultimaker 2 for 2 days and printed the ultimaker robot and 3 little usb cable clips for iphone 5 my power supply is making these weird noises. The motor to extrude the filament just quit today these prints are only 30 minutes..

Here are the links to show you my problems of on day 2 of owning a Ultimaker 2

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xC_sPIFjKII

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jPgqAf11ec

 

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Vinay, the problem you are facing is similar to mine. Did you try tightening the small hex screw in the knurled rotor? It looks like it is sticking proud and knurled object is also projecting more than it should.

After I tightened the hex screw it started working. I figured that the gap between the nozzle and the heated bed is an important parameter. Mine was less than 1 mm which made the extruder make some ticking noise. What i infer ithat as we build parts the pressure in the nozzle builds up considerably. This cause considerable pressure in the feeder mechanism. I may be wrong but after aligning the heated bed I did not see the problem again.

Thanks

Uma

 

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@vinay - everything sounds mostly normal except the extruder is skipping back during your print.

So first of all the sounds in the first video sound fine. I don't see the stepper turning. Is it? Obviously it is supposed to turn. But the sounds it makes are normal.

In the second video it looks like you are printing fine. I can hear occasional retraction, but I also hear when the extruder motor skips backwards. You should look at it - you should have videoed the stepper then but I'm pretty sure I know what is happening. What speed/temp/layer height are you printing at? You should either print thinner layers, print slower, or higher temp because your extruder stepper is slipping occasionally. The extruder stepper is designed to skip backwards if the pressure gets too high in the print head. This is usually caused by printing too much volume of PLA too fast.

 

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Thank you Uma and gr5! :smile:

Yes it only flickers when it prints so this is normal, good just wanted to make sure..

I can't remember what speed I was printing at in the video..

I don't mind printing slow I enjoy the high detail now I just print at

speed 30%

room temp 13c or 55f depends how cold the room is..

print head 190c- 201c

heated bed 75c-78c

layer height 0.1

The noise from the Z motor is normal too? skip to 0:46 and you will hear the z motor

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jPgqAf11ec

 

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