Editing Firmware: mapping E0 to E1

[koreandi1 0]

Dear community,

 

I just got a damaged Ultimaker 2+ for a very good price.

The Mainboard blown up on start up since then E0 is not working anymore.

After dissassmbing the mainboard there are some blownup capacitors and diodes on the E0 circuit.

X / Y / Z are working fine.

Can I connect the E0 Extruder to the E1 Output an map the firmware? E1 looks just fine.

Alternative my plan is to use a Smoothiware or DUET Wifi board.

 

Thanks and have a nice weekend.

[gr5 2,178]

You can also get a cheap chinese fake UM2 circuit board - but be warned, the ones I've seen have removable stepper drivers and you might also have to buy those but the prices are extraordinary.

 

Anyway yes if it were me I would use E1.  There's a file called "pins.h" which says which pins to use for all the steppers.  That's the only file you have to edit.  Compiling the code is more complicated.  Here's some instructions which have been edited so I think it's mostly straightforward.  Still it may take an hour or two out of your life even if you are familiar with compilers:

https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/16856-how-to-build-marlin-the-way-tinkerghome-and-ultimaker-do-it-if-you-have-windows/
 

[koreandi1 0]

So, thank you, I will start to go through the process...

My Board is: Ultimainboard rev. 2.1.4

 

In Pin.h there is a section with pin-assignement:

 

* Ultiboard v2.0 pin assignment

 

#define E0_STEP_PIN         49 
#define E0_DIR_PIN          47   
#define E0_ENABLE_PIN       48

#define E1_STEP_PIN         49
#define E1_DIR_PIN          47
#define E1_ENABLE_PIN       48

 

So those are the values I have to change / swap?

 

Thanks.

 

Edited March 1, 2021 by koreandi1

[gr5 2,178]

I think that looks right.  I see you copied the pin numbers from E1 to E0.  But there are so many board types it's confusing but I think you got the right one.

 

Note that many UM2 printers don't have the second extruder servo driver installed.  So look on the back side of that board where all the chips are loaded and the servo drivers are large square chips - there's one "near" each connector.  Make sure there isn't an empty spot for E1.

 

[gr5 2,178]

@tinkergnome - does this look good so far?

 

 

[koreandi1 0]

Hi all

 

So my board has a functional E1 port.

If I talked about E1 it should be called E1. The first extruder is E1 and the second is E2.

I am used to other boards that names the first extruder E0.

 

I changed the Pins in the FW and it works really fine.

I just have to adjust my E-Steps. I changed the slicer to 125% to fix that temporarily.

 

But I have to admit that I complied the Firmware without going through all that processes that was replied first.

I disconnected the board to investigate the problem. Then I powered it up, plugged in USB, used Arduino 1.8.13 to change and compile "Ultimaker2Marlin-master" sketch.

It was done in 5 minutes.

 

greetings

[tinkergnome 927]

4 hours ago, koreandi1 said:

I just have to adjust my E-Steps. I changed the slicer to 125% to fix that temporarily.

 

That's a sign that you compiled the firmware for the older Ultimaker 2 (non-plus) model. That would mean that all printer settings are now reset to the factory defaults for the older model and the extruder runs in the wrong direction?

(btw: 130.8% would be the exact factor in this case... 🙂)

 

Anyway - because it's not yet mentioned in this thread - and for reference:

firmware source files for the UM2+ are published here:

https://github.com/Ultimaker/UM2.1-Firmware

 

[koreandi1 0]

You are a genius..

Yes, my extruder was reversed. I swapped one coil and that was done.

Alle setting where factory-reset. Yes, but that didn´t bother me, because I never worked before with this printer.

I will take the time and recompile it with the linked Firmware.

 

So the difference between the way I compiled and the linked topic is that I wouldn't loose all printer settings?

[tinkergnome 927]

1 hour ago, koreandi1 said:

So the difference between the way I compiled and the linked topic is that I wouldn't loose all printer settings?

 

Usually the settings (that are stored on the printer) are not touched during a "normal" firmware update.

But the settings on the UM2+ are stored in different locations than on the older UM2. That's why there's an implicit factory reset every time you swap between UM2+ and UM2 (non-plus) firmware.

It doesn't matter how you compile it.

As soon as you stay in the same "family" (either plus or non-plus) you can update the firmware without loosing any (potentially custom) settings. That's all.