REQUEST Annealing build into the printer

[minercraftal 0]

Don’t know if my thoughts bounced forward or it’s just people still trying on it yet. 
there’s heat treating method on 3d printing called annealing, which saids will shrink the print size by 5% and make it much stronger. 
then than that, I was thinking about, can the annealing just build into the printer, for it don’t need high temperature, I checked the maximum bed temperature, it’s 120°C, and it’s just enough for it. 
the things need to make this method appear, is just a case, which other stuff already exists. The programming just need a special default setting, increasing the size by a percentage, increasing hole size extras. 
as well, the ultimaker is one of those rear printers, that is surrounded with covers, that’s necessary for something else, but the good point is, just make some extra designs in the cover, the build in heat treatment method will work, and will make exactly way more higher quality prints than ever. 
I was trying to search for a printer which can do heat treatment, but no results come out at all... 

otherwise, I’ll be appreciated to buy a um3 case upgrade kit, if you do accept this method and produce it out. 
I hate programming... 

i can help on design the shape of the new case 😄

[nallath 1,120]

UUh. The electronics inside of the printer can't stand that high temperatures. For the anealing you will need the entire volume to reach temperatures of 120 degrees. The slider blocks are made of ABS, which will melt well below that temperature.

 

I'd strongly recommend that you first get the annealing process working outside of the printer before you even think about trying to combine the two.

[geert_2 557]

Annealing does not just shrink the model by 5%: it shrinks it in X- and Y-size, but it gets thicker in Z-size, and it severely warps due to the relaxation of built-in stresses. Better use filament that can handle the required temperatures from the beginning. And even then, the result is only a poor less than 10°C better temp-resistance for PLA: still not usable in a car, it will still deform in a mild spring sun.

 

I tried annealing in different ways: by putting a fridge box on top of the model, and keep the build-plate hot (60...70°C for PLA). And in my well-controlled lab-oven.

 

 

An untreated, and a "too well" treated model (a bit too high temp): this one got much shorter, but much thicker. And it obviously warped severely...

 

Some filaments warp in both directions: first upwards, then after a day in the opposite direction downwards. Very weird, I have no explanation for this, and very unpredictable. Thus unusable for accurate parts.

 

 

[minercraftal 0]

1 hour ago, geert_2 said:

Annealing does not just shrink the model by 5%: it shrinks it in X- and Y-size, but it gets thicker in Z-size, and it severely warps due to the relaxation of built-in stresses. Better use filament that can handle the required temperatures from the beginning. And even then, the result is only a poor less than 10°C better temp-resistance for PLA: still not usable in a car, it will still deform in a mild spring sun.

 

I tried annealing in different ways: by putting a fridge box on top of the model, and keep the build-plate hot (60...70°C for PLA). And in my well-controlled lab-oven.

 

 

An untreated, and a "too well" treated model (a bit too high temp): this one got much shorter, but much thicker. And it obviously warped severely...

 

Some filaments warp in both directions: first upwards, then after a day in the opposite direction downwards. Very weird, I have no explanation for this, and very unpredictable. Thus unusable for accurate parts.

 

 

Thanks for those test results 😂, it’s a sad story, but the results are funny... I did not start my test yet, so I don’t know it has that much trouble... but not surprised about these happened. Failed to search any information out from google... well my trouble happens again, way too many ideas... like to build a abs case( I did tried nylon with pla, don’t stick together makes it easier to take apart, don’t know about abs but probably can be washed away ) to try to eliminate the shape changing, and the second idea is to add a reheater on the nozzle, to reheat the lower side of the part for annealing while printing, don’t know if any more ideas will come out soon... and it only interrupts me cause I have other stuff not finished to do... too many ideas don’t help much.