Steps for adding a logo to model?

[jax200 1]

I am looking for advice how to embed a logo to the surface of a model.  Many thanks!

[ZlOS 1]

We have a spare printbed that is laser etched with our logo in the center that was then lightly sanded with 2000 grit. Whenever prints require our logos, We use that bed with centre aligned prints. Gives a much neater hologram like effect which conventional G-Code manipulation of files wouldnt achieve as well in our opinion. All the best

[jax200 1]

Thanks for this idea.   But for now I am looking for a G-code manipulation method.

Edited May 6, 2021 by jax200

[geert_2 557]

The only predictable gcode-manipulation method I know is design it in 3D in CAD. And then play around with printer-settings, so it doesn't get closed when printing the bottom layer.

 

Instead of raised or recessed surface text: another option would be a watermark. In transparent or translucent materials the watermark can sit totally inside the model, shining through. Often gives a nice cool "watermark" effect indeed.

 

Design the logo or logo-text outside of the model, separately, and once finished move (a copy of) it into the model. Then subtract, so you end up with hollows, voids, in your model.

 

When using DesignSpark Mechanical as 3D-editor, subtracting isn't even necessary. Upon exporting to STL, it does so automatically. So you can just move the logo into the model. This makes subsequent editing much easier, since you can just hide the enveloping model, manipulate the logo, and make the outer model visible again. I usually make the watermark sit 0.5mm below the surface, preferably facing the bottom of the print. But other directions can work too if the watermark is big enough.

 

Print slow, cool and in thin layers for best shining through.

 

See the examples:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[jax200 1]

Those are nice... thanks for feedback.   Can you recommend translucent material you have had success with?

Edited May 23, 2021 by jax200

[geert_2 557]

These are in transparent PET (which becomes translucent after printing, due to the entrapped air in-between the sausages, breaking the light). I believe transparent PLA should even work better than PET as it flows better, but I don't have that... If you need a higher temp-resistance than PLA, then PET or CPE would be best, I think.

 

Translucent materials like colorFabb "natural" PLA/PHA also work with bigger watermarks, but not with such fine text as this. For fine details, you need a really transparent material, and you need to print it slow, cool and in thin layers for maximum effect. Make small test models to find the best settings for your model.