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Bridge Nylon (Taulman) Adhesion Issues


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Posted (edited) · Bridge Nylon (Taulman) Adhesion Issues

Greetings all. I was wondering if anyone has experience with this particular filament being used on Ultimaker printers. I have not had to do anything in nylon for a while, but the need will be coming soon and I have had a tough time getting this dialed-in in the past. The manufacturer calls for 250-260C nozzle temp, 35-60C plate temp (this seems low and IIRC I bumped this up a bit with some success last time I used it), and a print speed of 40mm/sec. On to the issues:


This filament does not want to stick to the stock glass plate. On the current part I am attempting (linear bearing, small part) it will get about 2-4 layers in and then it curls amazingly hard. I have always kept the filament in the material station since I know the hygroscopic properties are pretty much a bad as it gets, and I see no bubbling/hear no popping when extruding. I have used painters tape/masking tape in the past to get all the way through a print without a complete loss of adhesion, but even on those prints, the part curled tons. Luckily it did not curl enough to make them unusable, but today my boss mentioned us trying to do a cycle count on a larger part. I know that this larger part will require full adhesion to the bed, so I am halfway into panic mode.


One small note for my intended use. 100% infill would be ideal.


Has anyone used this filament and had success on a UM printer? If so, what sort of profile did you use? Any special tricks for getting lasting adhesion?


I have included a picture to give an idea of the warping/loss of adhesion. This is about 3 layers of a 2 piece linear bearing, approximately 20mm in diameter for the base. The warp is about 0.130" from flat on the part on the right.




Edited by FRabe
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    Posted · Bridge Nylon (Taulman) Adhesion Issues

    Hi @FRabe,


    Well, I've printed with Taulman Bridge Nylon.. 

    For this I'm using my UM2E+, -my experimental printer.


    First, you need to "prepare" a treatment of the heat bed!


    1) Clean the heat bed.

    2) Make a mixture of diluted PLA glue (carpenter wood glue) maybe better known nowadays as; "Pritt white glue".

         It will be; one part of "Pritt" and 15 parts of water approx. Mix it well!

    3) Use a "foam" brush and cover the needed area with this "glue mixture" -and let dry - then repeat three times!


    This will keep your model onto the bed during printing (using bed temp of (60-65) deg. Celsius).

    Use hand warm water bath to remove the model from the bed, if it stick, give it some time to loosen.


    Next, Cover the top (if you do not have the air manager). On the UM2E+ I'm using a plastic box for this purpose.

    This is important, as nylon is "sensitive" for cold drafts from above.


    Another important trick that's helps allot, is using draft shield, you'll find it under "experimental".


    The print temperature I'm use is (253-255) deg. Celsius.


    Finally, -do print some slow, (30-40) mm/sec, in order to have good adhesion.


    The inside printer "camber" temperature is important to keep stable and avoid draft.


    I've been printing "super" tiny nylon membrane and solid (100% infill) blocks using this method with great result. 🙂


    That's all.


    Good luck.








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