@UlrichC-DE I can second that, UM ABS is great. But question, what do you use for bed adhesion to not chip the glass? Dimafix?
UlrichC-DE 114
For the athesion or to protect the glass plate, I usually use (very old-fashioned) hairspray.
Where I also, pretty much everything except PLA parts in monster format, print without Brim.
Depending on the ABS parts I print...
- for very small parts (0.25 stuff)
- for a lot of parts
.. Magigoo is used as an alternative.
In addition, I have gained the experience that with large-area parts that are often cemented into the glass plate with 0.4 nozzles, 0.8 nozzles have a more homogeneous athesion.
The parts can be removed from the printer after cooling without filler. The glass plates remain intact.
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Thank you for your response @UlrichC-DE! For some context, I have created these topics recently because we're adding links to the Ultimaker Marketplace materials (Ultimaker filament), to guide people to our discussion platform if they have any questions about said material. Reading about other peoples experience is also incredibly helpful I reckon. So thanks for taking the time to write down your experience with Ultimaker ABS!
Since you mention you used all Ultimaker filaments, I think everyone could appreciate it if you could be bothered to add your experience of some other Ultimaker filaments too, when you would have a moment. At your convenience of course 🙂
Your experience with Ultimaker ABS, has that always been in combination with the UMS5 Pro Bundle incl Air Manager, or have you also printed it on other machines?
UlrichC-DE 114
I use the Ultimaker ABS on UM2+ as well as on S5 pro bundle.
Two UM2+ are each equipped with the same Ultimaker ABS. Currently in gray (RAL7016).
Because two printers are twice as fast as just one.
The Filamant lends itself to the above reasons. I have the UM2+ in another room, out of my observation.
On it run mostly technical end user parts. That's why I chose the most reliable combination imaginable for it, based on experience.
I think if you can get over using Ultimaker's slightly more expensive NFC Tag ABS rolls on the UM2+, you get Fire and Forget - at the next level.
I'm thinking about what I can come up with to write about the other filaments.
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UlrichC-DE 114
I often use Ultimaker ABS because it has the best adhesion compared to other ABS filaments.
Ultimaker ABS is also harder than other ABS filaments, such as those from BASF.
What I generally like about ABS is that it can be glued with acetone. ABS can be painted without significant preparation and plastic primer. I have printed every available filament that Ultimaker offers. Including PP and PET-G.
So far, I don't know of any other plastic where post-processing is so easy.
The good layer adhesion of Ultimaker ABS is not only reflected in the improved stability, but unfortunately also in its weight. Prints made with Ultimaker ABS are therefore just as heavy as PLA. (Not scientifically measured but only an empirical value)
Last but not least, Ultimaker ABS is one of the cheaper filamants in the range, next to PLA.
I print 50% of my prototypes, and it almost doesn't matter what they are printed from. PLA suffers in the post-processing and in the durability in relation to heat exposure. Therefore, in most cases for me and my technical parts actually only ABS remains.
The somewhat different ABS resume:
- permanent bonding / yes
- surface smoothing / yes
- Painting / yes
- Drilling / thread cutting / yes
- Inexpensive / yes
- Easy to print / yes
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