Printing on a print??

[stolowma 1]

Sorry if this is obvious but I'm still learning about this stuff.  I want to print a base with raised lettering and a logo on the top in a different color. I need to print the lettering at a high resolution but printing the base takes forever if I do the whole thing like that.  Is it possible to split a model in Cura, save each as a separate STL then print the second one on the first with different settings? I've tried splitting it and It looks like it would work but I don't want to trash my printer to find out that it doesn't.

Thanks

[Carbon 29]

As long as the "base" and "lettering" are different STL files this is possible....

 

First, go into "PREFERENCES" on the menu bar in Cura, in the "GENERAL" section, UN-TICK "Automatically drop models to build plate"

 

 

Then simply move to desired position. Using "arrows" or "co-ordinates".

 

TIP: Make sure the Z height is correct, as too low and it'll hit the base. Too high it'll miss. If you know the physical height of the base, I'd just type it in....

 

 

Hope this helps.....

Edited September 23, 2021 by Carbon

[GregValiant 1,413]

The first file:

Cannot shutoff the steppers or heaters or fan.  Comment out M84, M104, M140, M106 S0/M107 from the end of the file.

The second file cannot have purge lines or build plate adhesion or G28 or G29.  Some end stop switches are terribly inaccurate and homing/re-leveling can cause a layer shift plus the base is sitting there in the way.

You can do this with a single STL by using a support blocker configured as a cutting mesh and placed to keep the letters from slicing.  That will be File 1 and is the base.  Then remove the blocker and sink the model into the build plate to slice just the letters with no build plate adhesion as file 2.  Use M206 at the beginning of the second file to change the home offset Z.

EX:  base is 5mm tall so M206 Z-5 will adjust the lettering to print on top of the base (use your numbers).  You should add M206 Z0 at the end to reset.

Practice makes perfect.  Check out M32 but it must be enabled in the firmware.  Copying file 2 to the end of file 1 also works.  It's all about the transitions of XYZE.

Use G92 to sync the extruder position.

The "From" point of an extrusion is used to sync the X and Y so make sure it's correct.  Thinking and staring at the gcode is good.

The printer pays no attention to layer numbering.  Going from layer 25 to layer 51 is not a problem but the Z location is.

[stolowma 1]

Thanks, a couple of ways to try it. Something new to try to master.

[GregValiant 1,413]

How are you making out with this?  It's something I do a lot of and it's kinda like pausing a print to change colors.  Instead of continuing the same print it does a different print.  Of course the printer doesn't know that and just goes where it's told.

[stolowma 1]

GregValiant,

I did a test print following your instructions and it worked perfectly. You also helped me out with paussing and changing colors a while back. I'm also realizing that G-code isn't that difficult except for remembering what each command does what. 

Edited September 27, 2021 by stolowma

[GregValiant 1,413]

It's just a step-by-step program.  Each step tells the printer where to go, or how to act, and it's one thing at a time.

Once you have the basic commands down then the others don't come up very often.  The MarlinFW site has their gcodes and the RepRap site has essentially all the gcodes in normal usage.

 

And congratulations on passing Gcode 201.  🥂  You're moving up now baby!!!