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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Could you not "PAUSE" the printer after curve has completed, remove the material, then insert different colour? Making sure you "FOOL" the printer into thinking, it's the SAME material by choosing the material manually and not via NFC tag?
  2. Is the part touching the base in CURA? Any RED faces show that it's "un-supported". So effectively printing in fresh air......
  3. Can you heat the print core? If you can this will help you remove the core. Is the ColorFabb PLA you're using Ø 2.85mm?
  4. As far as I know, you can't buy the "nozzle only" you HAVE to buy a new extruder. We've experienced this, and rectified it by using a wire off a "Wire Brush"......yes a wire brush, heating the nozzle to operating temp, then pushing the wire through the nozzle hole then did a HOT and COLD pull, it now works a treat. 👍
  5. Have you Re-Calibrated the Decouplers since you had the "filament stuck" issue? https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/article_attachments/360013097260/Ultimaker_S5_Material_Station_-_Decoupler_calibration_instructions_v2.pdf
  6. Are you both using Print Core BB0.4 or BB0.8? Are the print cores clean inside? Are the pipes and guides free from blaokage? I only ask because as a piece of PVA broke off on the underside of our machine (feed paths) underneath the material station and was causing NO end of problems......similar to what you're both having.
  7. PVA.......well..... Cut a long story short, we've stopped using it. We now use "breakaway" with AA0.4. Story: The last straw was when the PVA broken and got stuck in the feed channels underneath the machine (just after the material bay loading points). The amount of times the material has broken and jammed inside the bowden tubes is unreal, as it feeds you can hear the cracking sounds of the material breaking. Storage has always been within a sealed bag along with a bag of "Silica Gel", prior to using, we warm the material inside the machine, by laying
  8. When you press / click on the "Blue button" (touch screen) for bay C, what does it say?
  9. First thing I would try. is to cut the material and remove it from the "Bowden" tubing. Cut the material at the material bay inserting point, then I would un-clip the tube from the extruder end and remove the material from the tubes. I would then, put another material of the same type into a different material station bay, load it and make sure the printer identifies it as the correct material (same as data sent by "CURA"). Then wait a few minutes to see if the print starts again (give in 10 mins min). If the printer doesn't resume, it may need p
  10. We use this and it passes our conductivity testing. https://www.kimya.fr/en/product/abs-esd-3d-filament/
  11. No, as the lift switch only lifts and drops the RHS extruder (when looking at the front of the printer). If the belt has slipped a tooth on ONE gear only, then this will cause the extruders to move "diagonally" through one axis (difficult to explain)....depending on how much and which gear has slipped.
  12. Has one of the axis drive belts slipped a tooth?
  13. Heat the nozzle for 5 mins or so, then insert a hot drill bit or a hot Ø2.5mm rod and either push or pull it out. Or try using a HOT AIR BLOW GUN instead.... Just thinking of ideas, be CAREFUL!!
  14. We've just purchased this: RS PRO 2.85mm Black CARBON-P 3D Printer Filament mainly for it's anti-static properties. Along with the CC Red 0.6mm Print Core. Couple of questions: 1) We plan to begin printing shortly, so just wanted to ask the question, Will this run on a "Generic" material profile or will I have to configure our own ? If "our own", can any one recommend settings? 2) If we were to purchase the 1.75mm Black Carbon P, will the profile be different to that of the 2.85mm ? 3) To run the 1.75mm material this would
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