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I recommend you try something like cheetah which is a little stiffer but good enough to make things like sneakers.
Anyway, to print this material you need to do a few things.
1) Set the feeder to the lowest tension (and don't forget to put it back when you switch back to "normal" filaments).
2) Print at 1/4 the speed you were printing before. All 7 or so printing speeds (like infill). Not just the "main speed".
3) Add oil to the filament. People just seem to refuse to do this but it works! It works very well. The friction in the bowden is quite high without adding oil. I add one drop per meter. This filament is so flexible (like string) that you can put the printer to the rear of a table and move the table away from any walls by a bit and unspool until the filament almost touches the floor. Add one drop of any kind of light petroleum oil (baby oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, not cooking oil which will go rancid). Add one drop every hour or so - or better: every meter. You unspool another meter and add one drop at the same time. People think the oil will end up affecting the print - making holes or something but it doesn't. It works very well.
4) Maybe raise the temperature a little bit. Look up recommended print temp range and print probably at the high end.
5) If steam is coming out or you hear sizzling (water boiling) then you also need to dry your filament. Unlike PLA you need to keep TPU very dry.
6) Regarding retraction - you want just enough to relieve the pressure in the bowden without actually pulling out of the feeder.
7) Flow - you can increase flow a bit but do not go over 5% extra (105%).
If you still see gaps in the walls - go to the TUNE menu and play with the speed (slow it down some more) or raise the temp. Keep notes about what you did. If you can't get rid of the gaps you failed. You have to get rid of those. They tell you that you have underextrusion. Did you add the oil? No? Well then that's the problem.
If you get Cheetah or similar stiffer filament you don't need to do any of this.
Posted
· Having trouble when printing with PolyFlex™ TPU
On top of the changes mentioned by @gr5, for TPU the problem is also that the processing temperature window is very narrow. Luckily the Ultimaker TPU or Generic TPU base profile is already optimized for TPU printing. However, the printing temperature is very specific for each TPU.
So if your print temperature is too low, you underextrude/grind/get an error. If your print temperature is too high, you get degraded (matt) material and eventually an error as well, as the degraded material builds up in your nozzle.
Typically printing at the lower range of the specified temperatures at low speed gives you reliable results, as with a Ultimaker / Bowden printer it is especially hard to print fast with TPU.
If you want to have a hassle-free experience, try Ultimaker's own TPU, then we basically did all this optimization for you (though you have to make sure the material is dry if you're not using a Material Station) 😉.
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In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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gr5 2,005
Yes it's possible.
You chose one of the hardest materials to print on a bowden printer. It's the left most material on my graph here:
http://gr5.org/mat/
I recommend you try something like cheetah which is a little stiffer but good enough to make things like sneakers.
Anyway, to print this material you need to do a few things.
1) Set the feeder to the lowest tension (and don't forget to put it back when you switch back to "normal" filaments).
2) Print at 1/4 the speed you were printing before. All 7 or so printing speeds (like infill). Not just the "main speed".
3) Add oil to the filament. People just seem to refuse to do this but it works! It works very well. The friction in the bowden is quite high without adding oil. I add one drop per meter. This filament is so flexible (like string) that you can put the printer to the rear of a table and move the table away from any walls by a bit and unspool until the filament almost touches the floor. Add one drop of any kind of light petroleum oil (baby oil, 3-in-1 oil, sewing machine oil, not cooking oil which will go rancid). Add one drop every hour or so - or better: every meter. You unspool another meter and add one drop at the same time. People think the oil will end up affecting the print - making holes or something but it doesn't. It works very well.
4) Maybe raise the temperature a little bit. Look up recommended print temp range and print probably at the high end.
5) If steam is coming out or you hear sizzling (water boiling) then you also need to dry your filament. Unlike PLA you need to keep TPU very dry.
6) Regarding retraction - you want just enough to relieve the pressure in the bowden without actually pulling out of the feeder.
7) Flow - you can increase flow a bit but do not go over 5% extra (105%).
If you still see gaps in the walls - go to the TUNE menu and play with the speed (slow it down some more) or raise the temp. Keep notes about what you did. If you can't get rid of the gaps you failed. You have to get rid of those. They tell you that you have underextrusion. Did you add the oil? No? Well then that's the problem.
If you get Cheetah or similar stiffer filament you don't need to do any of this.
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TimonR 21
On top of the changes mentioned by @gr5, for TPU the problem is also that the processing temperature window is very narrow. Luckily the Ultimaker TPU or Generic TPU base profile is already optimized for TPU printing. However, the printing temperature is very specific for each TPU.
So if your print temperature is too low, you underextrude/grind/get an error. If your print temperature is too high, you get degraded (matt) material and eventually an error as well, as the degraded material builds up in your nozzle.
Typically printing at the lower range of the specified temperatures at low speed gives you reliable results, as with a Ultimaker / Bowden printer it is especially hard to print fast with TPU.
If you want to have a hassle-free experience, try Ultimaker's own TPU, then we basically did all this optimization for you (though you have to make sure the material is dry if you're not using a Material Station) 😉.
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