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On the red piece I see that at around layer 15 there was a slight problem, at the visible defect the problem was major, and above the major problem there is another layer that shows the minor defect again.
Since they don't appear to be at regular intervals (Z binding or junk on the Z wheels or something else mechanical) then it would appear that something is intermittently affecting the extrusion. The Enders (I have a 3 Pro) and CR-10's share the same model hot ends and it's often a partial clog at the bottom of the bowden tube where it is supposed to provide a seal against the top of the nozzle. If a gap develops there (and it will over time) then longish retractions can pull molten material into the gap between the tube and the nozzle end. That material in the gap can cause a partial blockage resultant in intermittent flow.
Fixing the problem requires warming up the hot end, taking the nozzle off, pulling out the bowden tube, passing a piece of correctly sized wire (I found a coat hanger that worked) through the hot end to push out the plug of plastic, and trimming off 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube. The cut on the end of the bowden tube needs to be as exactly square as you can make it. When re-assembling the hot end - leave the nozzle loose by 1/2 turn, shove the bowden tube back in down to the nozzle, put the lock clip on the tube fitting, and then do a final tighten on the nozzle. The hot end needs to be hot during that.
The problem could also be a fluctuation in the temperature, but that doesn't happen very often.
If you have a stock Creality extruder that is constructed of plastic then pull the pressure arm off and look at it's bottom side. Those arms WILL crack and fail at some point. The fix for that is an aluminum extruder.
Cura 5.7 is here and it brings a handy new workflow improvement when using Thingiverse and Cura together, as well as additional capabilities for Method series printers, and a powerful way of sharing print settings using new printer-agnostic project files! Read on to find out about all of these improvements and more.
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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GregValiant 1,251
On the red piece I see that at around layer 15 there was a slight problem, at the visible defect the problem was major, and above the major problem there is another layer that shows the minor defect again.
Since they don't appear to be at regular intervals (Z binding or junk on the Z wheels or something else mechanical) then it would appear that something is intermittently affecting the extrusion. The Enders (I have a 3 Pro) and CR-10's share the same model hot ends and it's often a partial clog at the bottom of the bowden tube where it is supposed to provide a seal against the top of the nozzle. If a gap develops there (and it will over time) then longish retractions can pull molten material into the gap between the tube and the nozzle end. That material in the gap can cause a partial blockage resultant in intermittent flow.
Fixing the problem requires warming up the hot end, taking the nozzle off, pulling out the bowden tube, passing a piece of correctly sized wire (I found a coat hanger that worked) through the hot end to push out the plug of plastic, and trimming off 5 or 6mm of the bowden tube. The cut on the end of the bowden tube needs to be as exactly square as you can make it. When re-assembling the hot end - leave the nozzle loose by 1/2 turn, shove the bowden tube back in down to the nozzle, put the lock clip on the tube fitting, and then do a final tighten on the nozzle. The hot end needs to be hot during that.
The problem could also be a fluctuation in the temperature, but that doesn't happen very often.
If you have a stock Creality extruder that is constructed of plastic then pull the pressure arm off and look at it's bottom side. Those arms WILL crack and fail at some point. The fix for that is an aluminum extruder.
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HienoKaveri 0
*sigh*
Glad it was this simple..
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