GregValiant 1,351
The side with "Creality" facing up. Some people like to print on the other side which is plain glass.
thanks
GregValiant 1,351
The STL is a clip that snaps onto the bottom roller screw under the X motor. It trips the Z switch. If you use it then you don't have to move the Z switch and it's easy to go back and forth between the glass and the stock surface. It might need a little filing so the tabs don't break.
On 1/29/2022 at 9:01 AM, 3Dupgrader said:
You should bring the nozzle closer to the bed i print a test file and adjust it whilst printing when the fillment do not stick nozzle is too far when fillment is narrow and small amount nozzle is too close
Just now, ChrSto said:You should bring the nozzle closer to the bed i print a test file and adjust it whilst printing when the fillment do not stick nozzle is too far when fillment is narrow and small amount nozzle is too close. The bed and nozzle temperatures should be C
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GregValiant 1,351
This would probably be answered better on a Creality site.
@gr5 is one of the moderators here and made a video that I call "Everything you wanted to know about bed adhesion". Make some popcorn and have a view. The VIDEO IS HERE.
I print on the same glass bed as yours and I print on the textured side. Give it a good bath with soap and water. Place it on the printer and then wipe it down well with 90% Isopropyl Alcohol. I print PLA at 50° bed temp but 60° is fine. With a freshly cleaned plate I don't need anything to aid bed adhesion with PLA. On the other hand, PETG always requires help and I'm a fan of hairspray. When using hairspray with PLA allow the glass to cool before trying to remove the print.
There are certain models that will require elephant ears. Cura has a plugin for "Anti-warping Tabs" that can be sized and moved around to keep prints from warping by providing additional surface area.
This is a crutch but you can try it:
As soon as you start a test print - go to the Tune menu on the LCD and jump the flow up to 115%. That extra plastic should help to get squish even if you have too large of a Z gap on the first layer.
As the print goes down you can tune it back towards 100%. When it looks like it's working well then you know what your Initial Layer Flow should be set to in Cura.
Gr5's video will help you get rid of the crutch.
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