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The only thing I know for sure is that the gap in the walls, the "delamination issue" is underextrusion. That is a very common sign of mild underextrusion. Even if the part looks perfect everywhere else. And the part doesn't look fine everywhere else - I see underextrusion on the top layers as well. You can find the ratio of the gap to the lines by measuring with a micrometer on a blown up version of your images and figure out what percentage underextruded. I'm going to guess 15%.
It's nice to know it's in the print core only although that isn't 100%. A good feeder should overcome some of the deficiencies in the core.
Just to further eliminate the feeder - I recommend fighting the feeder. So lift the lever and pull the filament half way down the tube then on the touch screen do "MOVE" material to energize the feeder and then fight the feeder by pulling down on the filament. You can even turn the dial in the MOVE menu while fighing it. Try to get it to skip. You shouldn't be able. The S5 feeder can pull about 15 pounds or about 7kg. This is rough. 5lbs of force should be enough (barely) for good prints normally. 10 pounds is excellent. 15 pounds is nominal. So do this quick test. Maybe grab a weight so you can compare the amount of force against a known weight. Or you can grip the filament to a weight and let the weight do the pulling.
Also hopefully you are doing default temps and speeds. Printing too fast or too cold can cause underextrusion.
And it could be partly a bowden issue. You should replace those every 1000 hours of printing or so I think.
That leads us to the core. Really I expect it is buildup on the inside of the nozzle in that narrow passage. That passage that is only 0.4mm in diameter may now be 0.3mm. I'm not really sure how to clean that out. Cold pulls comes to mind but that gunk can be stuck. You could take the core apart and burn out the nozzle. It will be weaker (the brass no longer tempered if it gets above around 500C) but the brass is stronger than necessary anyway. I have a youtube video.
Anyway, if it were me, I would just increase the flow to 110% and increase the temp by +5C. All of which you can do from the tune menu live. This should help you get another 100 hours of prints maybe.
Or you could use a hypodermic to scrape the inside of the tip of the nozzle while it is hot on the printer or right after a good cold pull that leaves the nozzle tip empty.
Another possibility of course is the temp sensor. Any increase in resistance (contacts where print core meets the printer for example) will make the temp look high which means it will print colder than desired. You could try this video which is for PLA to get an estimate of the temp. I don't know any other way to check the temp.
PLA softens at a much more consistent temperature than you might expect:
It's been a while since we posted this issue / question, in the meanwhile we found the root cause and we wanted to post an update. First of all, @gr5, I really appreciated your throrough response and advice, this gave us a lot of material to work with. Throughout the last months we did some testing and eventually found the root cause of the issue. Somewhat expected, the underextrusion was indeed caused by a buildup of material inside the narrow passage within the nozzle. This concerned material residue - especially PLA and PETG - that got 'cooked' into the nozzle and is thus very hard to remove. Hot and cold pulls only remove superficial dirt, but it's very hard to use those to remove all the residue, so we had to resort to alternative methods to get everything thoroughly cleaned. The hypodermic worked well, but a 0,4mm drill worked even better, and now the print cores are printing again as if they were brand new!
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In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
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gr5 2,004
The only thing I know for sure is that the gap in the walls, the "delamination issue" is underextrusion. That is a very common sign of mild underextrusion. Even if the part looks perfect everywhere else. And the part doesn't look fine everywhere else - I see underextrusion on the top layers as well. You can find the ratio of the gap to the lines by measuring with a micrometer on a blown up version of your images and figure out what percentage underextruded. I'm going to guess 15%.
It's nice to know it's in the print core only although that isn't 100%. A good feeder should overcome some of the deficiencies in the core.
Just to further eliminate the feeder - I recommend fighting the feeder. So lift the lever and pull the filament half way down the tube then on the touch screen do "MOVE" material to energize the feeder and then fight the feeder by pulling down on the filament. You can even turn the dial in the MOVE menu while fighing it. Try to get it to skip. You shouldn't be able. The S5 feeder can pull about 15 pounds or about 7kg. This is rough. 5lbs of force should be enough (barely) for good prints normally. 10 pounds is excellent. 15 pounds is nominal. So do this quick test. Maybe grab a weight so you can compare the amount of force against a known weight. Or you can grip the filament to a weight and let the weight do the pulling.
Also hopefully you are doing default temps and speeds. Printing too fast or too cold can cause underextrusion.
And it could be partly a bowden issue. You should replace those every 1000 hours of printing or so I think.
That leads us to the core. Really I expect it is buildup on the inside of the nozzle in that narrow passage. That passage that is only 0.4mm in diameter may now be 0.3mm. I'm not really sure how to clean that out. Cold pulls comes to mind but that gunk can be stuck. You could take the core apart and burn out the nozzle. It will be weaker (the brass no longer tempered if it gets above around 500C) but the brass is stronger than necessary anyway. I have a youtube video.
Anyway, if it were me, I would just increase the flow to 110% and increase the temp by +5C. All of which you can do from the tune menu live. This should help you get another 100 hours of prints maybe.
Or you could use a hypodermic to scrape the inside of the tip of the nozzle while it is hot on the printer or right after a good cold pull that leaves the nozzle tip empty.
Another possibility of course is the temp sensor. Any increase in resistance (contacts where print core meets the printer for example) will make the temp look high which means it will print colder than desired. You could try this video which is for PLA to get an estimate of the temp. I don't know any other way to check the temp.
PLA softens at a much more consistent temperature than you might expect:
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It's been a while since we posted this issue / question, in the meanwhile we found the root cause and we wanted to post an update. First of all, @gr5, I really appreciated your throrough response and advice, this gave us a lot of material to work with. Throughout the last months we did some testing and eventually found the root cause of the issue. Somewhat expected, the underextrusion was indeed caused by a buildup of material inside the narrow passage within the nozzle. This concerned material residue - especially PLA and PETG - that got 'cooked' into the nozzle and is thus very hard to remove. Hot and cold pulls only remove superficial dirt, but it's very hard to use those to remove all the residue, so we had to resort to alternative methods to get everything thoroughly cleaned. The hypodermic worked well, but a 0,4mm drill worked even better, and now the print cores are printing again as if they were brand new!
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