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The only thing I know for sure is that the gap in the walls, the "delamination issue" is underextrusion. That is a very common sign of mild underextrusion. Even if the part looks perfect everywhere else. And the part doesn't look fine everywhere else - I see underextrusion on the top layers as well. You can find the ratio of the gap to the lines by measuring with a micrometer on a blown up version of your images and figure out what percentage underextruded. I'm going to guess 15%.
It's nice to know it's in the print core only although that isn't 100%. A good feeder should overcome some of the deficiencies in the core.
Just to further eliminate the feeder - I recommend fighting the feeder. So lift the lever and pull the filament half way down the tube then on the touch screen do "MOVE" material to energize the feeder and then fight the feeder by pulling down on the filament. You can even turn the dial in the MOVE menu while fighing it. Try to get it to skip. You shouldn't be able. The S5 feeder can pull about 15 pounds or about 7kg. This is rough. 5lbs of force should be enough (barely) for good prints normally. 10 pounds is excellent. 15 pounds is nominal. So do this quick test. Maybe grab a weight so you can compare the amount of force against a known weight. Or you can grip the filament to a weight and let the weight do the pulling.
Also hopefully you are doing default temps and speeds. Printing too fast or too cold can cause underextrusion.
And it could be partly a bowden issue. You should replace those every 1000 hours of printing or so I think.
That leads us to the core. Really I expect it is buildup on the inside of the nozzle in that narrow passage. That passage that is only 0.4mm in diameter may now be 0.3mm. I'm not really sure how to clean that out. Cold pulls comes to mind but that gunk can be stuck. You could take the core apart and burn out the nozzle. It will be weaker (the brass no longer tempered if it gets above around 500C) but the brass is stronger than necessary anyway. I have a youtube video.
Anyway, if it were me, I would just increase the flow to 110% and increase the temp by +5C. All of which you can do from the tune menu live. This should help you get another 100 hours of prints maybe.
Or you could use a hypodermic to scrape the inside of the tip of the nozzle while it is hot on the printer or right after a good cold pull that leaves the nozzle tip empty.
Another possibility of course is the temp sensor. Any increase in resistance (contacts where print core meets the printer for example) will make the temp look high which means it will print colder than desired. You could try this video which is for PLA to get an estimate of the temp. I don't know any other way to check the temp.
PLA softens at a much more consistent temperature than you might expect:
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The only thing I know for sure is that the gap in the walls, the "delamination issue" is underextrusion. That is a very common sign of mild underextrusion. Even if the part looks perfect everywhere else. And the part doesn't look fine everywhere else - I see underextrusion on the top layers as well. You can find the ratio of the gap to the lines by measuring with a micrometer on a blown up version of your images and figure out what percentage underextruded. I'm going to guess 15%.
It's nice to know it's in the print core only although that isn't 100%. A good feeder should overcome some of the deficiencies in the core.
Just to further eliminate the feeder - I recommend fighting the feeder. So lift the lever and pull the filament half way down the tube then on the touch screen do "MOVE" material to energize the feeder and then fight the feeder by pulling down on the filament. You can even turn the dial in the MOVE menu while fighing it. Try to get it to skip. You shouldn't be able. The S5 feeder can pull about 15 pounds or about 7kg. This is rough. 5lbs of force should be enough (barely) for good prints normally. 10 pounds is excellent. 15 pounds is nominal. So do this quick test. Maybe grab a weight so you can compare the amount of force against a known weight. Or you can grip the filament to a weight and let the weight do the pulling.
Also hopefully you are doing default temps and speeds. Printing too fast or too cold can cause underextrusion.
And it could be partly a bowden issue. You should replace those every 1000 hours of printing or so I think.
That leads us to the core. Really I expect it is buildup on the inside of the nozzle in that narrow passage. That passage that is only 0.4mm in diameter may now be 0.3mm. I'm not really sure how to clean that out. Cold pulls comes to mind but that gunk can be stuck. You could take the core apart and burn out the nozzle. It will be weaker (the brass no longer tempered if it gets above around 500C) but the brass is stronger than necessary anyway. I have a youtube video.
Anyway, if it were me, I would just increase the flow to 110% and increase the temp by +5C. All of which you can do from the tune menu live. This should help you get another 100 hours of prints maybe.
Or you could use a hypodermic to scrape the inside of the tip of the nozzle while it is hot on the printer or right after a good cold pull that leaves the nozzle tip empty.
Another possibility of course is the temp sensor. Any increase in resistance (contacts where print core meets the printer for example) will make the temp look high which means it will print colder than desired. You could try this video which is for PLA to get an estimate of the temp. I don't know any other way to check the temp.
PLA softens at a much more consistent temperature than you might expect:
Link to post
Share on other sites