Thanks, but the problem is not always about bonding with the build plate. It's that the printer fails one way or another for long streaks, and then, inexplicably works perfectly for a long streak. I have literally tried scores of recommendations designed to address whatever the latest failure appears to be from. As far as I can tell, those are all based on superstition as none of them has ever gotten me from failure to success. It's just years-long streaks of one mode and then--without changing anything--it switches to a years-long streak in the other mode.
Since my original post, I've had at least 20 consecutive failures and no successes.
* I had to replace my Olsson block again, because, after cleaning up the one encased in plastic, the stem of a new nozzle snapped off in the block as I was hand tightening it. (I was only hand tightening because I haven't been able to print the torque wrench tool you're supposed to use.)
* I've had no filament extrude--done a hot/cold pull which looked perfect--again had no extrusion--done a second hot/cold pull which also looked perfect--and then the filament flowed again.
* I've had the material removal operation leave a blob of stringy filament completely blocking the middle of the bowden tube. That required completely removing the tube and clearing the blockage with compressed air.
* I've had the initial extrusion that the Ultimaker does before it begins a print make a mid-air u-turn and climb back up to the nozzle. A lumpy blob of plastic surrounding the tip of the nozzle is not conducive to getting the first layer to adhere to the build plate.
* I've also had _perfect_ first layers, only to have the extrusion for the second layer prefer to adhere to the outside of the nozzle rather than the first layer.
* And I've had lifting and warping begin two hours into a print. I've complete detachments from the bed happen near the end of a print, and I've had prints that split.
* Retractions before travel moves never seem to be enough to avoid scars and stringing and yet they are more than enough to lift long beads of filament that has already been deposited, which then drag around the print building up like katamari damacy.
If I were having the same problem time after time, and I got some advice that helped, I think I could stomach this, even if there were still occasional failures that happened at random. But the very long streaks of failures about which there seems to be nothing in my control to fix is disheartening, especially knowing that the printer is also capable of long streaks of success.
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geert_2 558
It looks like you have issues with the print bonding to the glass. So you would need to look into bonding methods, and try various methods.
Room temperature and air moisture have a huge effect on bonding to the glass, if you would not use any bonding method and print on bare glass. In freezing dry air, PLA might bond excellently, but the day after in warm moist air, it might not bond at all.
You also need to look into your glass cleaning method: never use soaps, window cleaners, thinners, and that sort of stuff: these often leave traces of soap, detergents, or oils that destroy bonding. Fingerprints also destroy bonding. Clean with isopropyl alcohol first, and then with pure warm tap water only.
Try a small but very diffucult model, such as an inverted prism, and try various bonding methods until you find one that works reliably on such very difficult models. Stay with the printer and closely watch what happens while printing.
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