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Upgrading the UM2 stock Hotend to a higher temperatur one
Posted
· Upgrading the UM2 stock Hotend to a higher temperatur one
So the electric switch (mosfet) can handle up to 100 watts no problem. However the power brick will have trouble if you have the nozzle on full power and the bed on full power even for just 2 seconds the power brick may trip and shut down your printer long enough for it to reboot.
The solution is to install tinkerMarlin which has power management and will give the head priority if the overall draw of power exceeds 180 Watts.
3dsolex sells high quality heaters for UM2 up to 50W and they work just fine.
However if you need the bed at 100C (and nozzle at 240C) then you probably need to beef up the 24V supply or add a supplement heater: a second heater under the bed that does maybe half the heavy lifting and the remaining work is done by the existing heater/temp sensor solution.
Here's an old post about how the power budget works in tinkerMarlin - read this after you install it and have the new print head installed:
how to use tinkermarlin power budget
To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people. The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you just tell it. Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget. The bed gets lowest priority.
In this version of Marlin is a power budget system. Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is).
Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal. If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on. This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle). All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it.
So for example if you use 150bed/50noz/150budget nozzle is on at 50% (25 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 25 watts below budget (150-25 is 125 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 83% power at that time (83% duty cycle). This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).
Strap in for the first Cura release of 2024! This 5.7 beta release brings new material profiles as well as cloud printing for Method series printers, and introduces a powerful new way of sharing print settings using printer-agnostic project files! Also, if you want to download the cute dinosaur card holder featured below, it was specially designed for this release and can be found on Thingiverse!
S-Line Firmware 8.3.0 was released Nov. 20th on the "Latest" firmware branch.
(Sorry, was out of office when this released)
This update is for...
All UltiMaker S series
New features
Temperature status. During print preparation, the temperatures of the print cores and build plate will be shown on the display. This gives a better indication of the progress and remaining wait time. Save log files in paused state. It is now possible to save the printer's log files to USB if the currently active print job is paused. Previously, the Dump logs to USB option was only enabled if the printer was in idle state. Confirm print removal via Digital Factory. If the printer is connected to the Digital Factory, it is now possible to confirm the removal of a previous print job via the Digital Factory interface. This is useful in situations where the build plate is clear, but the operator forgot to select Confirm removal on the printer’s display. Visit this page for more information about this feature.
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gr5 2,157
So the electric switch (mosfet) can handle up to 100 watts no problem. However the power brick will have trouble if you have the nozzle on full power and the bed on full power even for just 2 seconds the power brick may trip and shut down your printer long enough for it to reboot.
The solution is to install tinkerMarlin which has power management and will give the head priority if the overall draw of power exceeds 180 Watts.
https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases
3dsolex sells high quality heaters for UM2 up to 50W and they work just fine.
However if you need the bed at 100C (and nozzle at 240C) then you probably need to beef up the 24V supply or add a supplement heater: a second heater under the bed that does maybe half the heavy lifting and the remaining work is done by the existing heater/temp sensor solution.
Here's an old post about how the power budget works in tinkerMarlin - read this after you install it and have the new print head installed:
how to use tinkermarlin power budget
To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people. The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you just tell it. Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget. The bed gets lowest priority.
In this version of Marlin is a power budget system. Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is).
Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal. If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on. This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle). All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it.
So for example if you use 150bed/50noz/150budget nozzle is on at 50% (25 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 25 watts below budget (150-25 is 125 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 83% power at that time (83% duty cycle). This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).
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LightPhonix 0
thanks for the reply. I think I will go for the option of installing the custom firmware.
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