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Upgrading the UM2 stock Hotend to a higher temperatur one


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Posted · Upgrading the UM2 stock Hotend to a higher temperatur one

Like the title suggests I want to find out if I can upgrade the hotend on my UM2 to an all metal hotend. My plan is to print Nylon CF/GF and other 250-300°C filaments, for that to work I need to get my hotend above 240°C (which is where the PTFE should start to degrade). So I looked around on the Internet and found some all metall hotends, but they are using a heating cartrige which needs more power.
So my Question is:
- can the UM2 Mainboard handle 35-50W Heating elements?
- are there available upgrade kits for the UM2?
- is here someone who has experience with new all metal hotends?


I found some Hotends where I would have to print an adapter to fit the hotend to the UM2:
-E3D V6 : the standard/cheap hotend
-E3D Revo : sadly no hardened nozzles
-Bondtech Mosquito: pretty expensive but it should do the job and be reliable
-Bondtech Copperhead: the cheaper alternative to the Mosquito (an metal adapter would be needes but perhaps no new Mounting system on the linear rods?))
-Phaetus Dragon: the cheaper alternative to the Mosquito
-Creality spider: pretty new, no opinion an that particular one

I found some people that are using 35W heating elements and very few use 40-50W. But they havent specified if they upgraded the UM2 mainboard for that purpose. I would guess it should be finde to use 35W because there is a dual hotend option which would require more than the singe extruder version. 



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    Posted · Upgrading the UM2 stock Hotend to a higher temperatur one

    So the electric switch (mosfet) can handle up to 100 watts no problem.  However the power brick will have trouble if you have the nozzle on full power and the bed on full power even for just 2 seconds the power brick may trip and shut down your printer long enough for it to reboot.


    The solution is to install tinkerMarlin which has power management and will give the head priority if the overall draw of power exceeds 180 Watts.




    3dsolex sells high quality heaters for UM2 up to 50W and they work just fine.


    However if you need the bed at 100C (and nozzle at 240C) then you probably need to beef up the 24V supply or add a supplement heater: a second heater under the bed that does maybe half the heavy lifting and the remaining work is done by the existing heater/temp sensor solution.





    Here's an old post about how the power budget works in tinkerMarlin - read this after you install it and have the new print head installed:


    how to use tinkermarlin power budget
     To me the power budget feature is very simple but it seems to confuse people.  The power budget feature does not know how much power each element uses so you just tell it.  Tell it how many watts everything is and what the budget is and it will make sure heaters are turned off or turned down a bit when they would exceed the budget.  The bed gets lowest priority.


    In this version of Marlin is a power budget system.  Set the bed to 150W (that's what it's supposed to be I think) and set the nozzle to 25W (if you have 3rd party nozzle such as 3dsolex then set this to what is truth - what nozzle actually is).


    Then if you set the budget to 175W (150+25) the power budget won't do anything and the printer will work normal.  If you lower the budget to 150W then the power budget will lower the power to the bed when the nozzle is on.  This changes many times per second (adjustments of power to nozzle).  All the remaining power goes to the bed if the bed wants it.


    So for example if you use 150bed/50noz/150budget nozzle is on at 50% (25 watts) then the bed will only be allowed 25 watts below budget (150-25 is 125 watts) and so the bed will never exceed 83% power at that time (83% duty cycle).  This changes 20 times per second (nozzle asking for more then less power, bed occasionally restricted a little bit).


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