UltiMaker uses functional, analytical and tracking cookies. Tracking cookies enhance your experience on our website and may also collect your personal data outside of Ultimaker websites. If you agree with the use of tracking cookies, click “I agree, continue browsing”. You can withdraw your consent at any time. If you do not consent with the use of tracking cookies, click “Refuse”. You can find more information about cookies on our Privacy and Cookie Policy page.
I'm not sure how similar that is to HDPE. Maybe you need to be more specific - I seem to remember that HDPE is resistant to acids? I don't know much about this subject.
CPE is pretty easy to print. Relatively easy. I think it's the same thing or similar to other vendors products called "PETG".
PP is hard to get to stick to a glass bed. Ultimaker used to recommend special plastic embedded paper that you put on the print bed but it usually tears so it's a pain in the neck - you have to remove it all and put on a new sheet almost every print (or print on a new area each time). They are called "print sheets" or something similar.
But now I think there may be newer methods to get PP to stick (maybe using PEI bed instead of glass? Maybe using "magigoo PP" (never tried it).
What about printing HPDE directly? I don't know. I'd give it a shot. It's not all that expensive. Make sure you get 2.85mm diameter. I've seen people complain that "it doesn't stick to itself well" and "it warps off the bed". These complaints tell me that they aren't getting good layer adhesion. So print with the fan OFF and crank up the bed as high as you can go (110C or hotter) and cover the printer enough to get the air in there to around 40C (40C is deemed safe by Ultimaker but don't go any hotter as the stepper motors can overheat). Also experiment with various glues (hairspray, elmers wood glue and water, etc - google these or watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k )
If you're looking for HDPE, the next best material which is reasonably printable is PP. I'd guess giving that a go might work (although Ultimaker PP is a bit more flexible as its an PP-PE copolymer). If you need something stiffer, you could also look at a Marketplace PP / PE material: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials?page=1&polymer_classes=pe,pp,polyolefins.
In this stable release, Cura 5.3 achieves yet another huge leap forward in 3D printing thanks to material interlocking! As well as introducing an expanded recommended print settings menu and lots of print quality improvements. Not to mention, a whole bunch of new printer profiles for non-UltiMaker printers!
The UltiMaker S7 is built on the success of the UltiMaker S5 and its design decisions were heavily based on feedback from customers.
So what’s new?
The obvious change is the S7’s height. It now includes an integrated Air Manager. This filters the exhaust air of every print and also improves build temperature stability. To further enclose the build chamber the S7 only has one magnetically latched door.
The build stack has also been completely redesigned. A PEI-coated flexible steel build plate makes a big difference to productivity. Not only do you not need tools to pop a printed part off. But we also don’t recommend using or adhesion structures for UltiMaker materials (except PC, because...it’s PC). Along with that, 4 pins and 25 magnets make it easy to replace the flex plate perfectly – even with one hand.
The re-engineered print head has an inductive sensor which reduces noise when probing the build plate. This effectively makes it much harder to not achieve a perfect first layer, improving overall print success. We also reversed the front fan direction (fewer plastic hairs, less maintenance), made the print core door magnets stronger, and add a sensor that helps avoid flooding.
The UltiMaker S7 also includes quality of life improvements:
Reliable bed tilt compensation (no more thumbscrews) 2.4 and 5 GHz Wi-Fi A 1080p camera (mounted higher for a better view) Compatibility with 280+ Marketplace materials Compatibility with S5 project files (no reslicing needed) And a whole lot more
Curious to see the S7 in action?
We’re hosting a free tech demo on February 7.
It will be live and you can ask any questions to our CTO, Miguel Calvo.
Register here for the Webinar
Are you a fan of tree support, but dislike the removal process and the amount of filament it uses? Then we would like to invite you to try this special release of UltiMaker Cura. Brought to you by our special community contributor @thomasrahm
We generated a special version of Cura 5.2 called 5.3.0 Alpha + Xmas. The only changes we introduced compared to UltiMaker Cura 5.2.1 are those which are needed for the new supports. So keep in mind, this is not a sneak peek for Cura 5.3 (there are some really cool new features coming up) but a spotlight release highlighting this new version of tree supports.
Recommended Posts
gr5 2,005
According to Ultimaker, PP and CPE are "chemically resistant":
https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360011940320-Which-Ultimaker-material-should-I-use-
I'm not sure how similar that is to HDPE. Maybe you need to be more specific - I seem to remember that HDPE is resistant to acids? I don't know much about this subject.
CPE is pretty easy to print. Relatively easy. I think it's the same thing or similar to other vendors products called "PETG".
PP is hard to get to stick to a glass bed. Ultimaker used to recommend special plastic embedded paper that you put on the print bed but it usually tears so it's a pain in the neck - you have to remove it all and put on a new sheet almost every print (or print on a new area each time). They are called "print sheets" or something similar.
But now I think there may be newer methods to get PP to stick (maybe using PEI bed instead of glass? Maybe using "magigoo PP" (never tried it).
What about printing HPDE directly? I don't know. I'd give it a shot. It's not all that expensive. Make sure you get 2.85mm diameter. I've seen people complain that "it doesn't stick to itself well" and "it warps off the bed". These complaints tell me that they aren't getting good layer adhesion. So print with the fan OFF and crank up the bed as high as you can go (110C or hotter) and cover the printer enough to get the air in there to around 40C (40C is deemed safe by Ultimaker but don't go any hotter as the stepper motors can overheat). Also experiment with various glues (hairspray, elmers wood glue and water, etc - google these or watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t58-WTxDy-k )
I'd also disable the cooling feature on your S3. When testing 5 minute prints it really sucks to wait for the bed to cool down to 50C and then heat back up to 110C between every print and every experiment. https://community.ultimaker.com/topic/39188-ultituner-a-tool-to-tweak-your-printer
Link to post
Share on other sites
TimonR 21
Hi @Siggir,
You could try to look here for a chemical resistance 101: https://ultimaker.com/learn/chemical-resistant-materials-a-beginners-guide
If you're looking for HDPE, the next best material which is reasonably printable is PP. I'd guess giving that a go might work (although Ultimaker PP is a bit more flexible as its an PP-PE copolymer). If you need something stiffer, you could also look at a Marketplace PP / PE material: https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials?page=1&polymer_classes=pe,pp,polyolefins.
Apparently Braskem has a HDPE-like filament with a print profile for the S5 available:
https://marketplace.ultimaker.com/app/cura/materials/1234567/FL300PE
Hope this helps!
Link to post
Share on other sites