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chrisp

Printing with ABS

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Is it completely necessary to change/modify the original hot-end in the UM2 to print with ABS? I realize the nylon fitting could be subject to deformation at temperatures around 260 degrees C.

Has anyone successfully printed with ABS using the factory setup with the UM2?

I have never printed with ABS and I have 4 rolls of it.

My next project is going to require many parts that need to be done with ABS.

Any ideas for modifications are welcome here.

 

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I print ABS on the UM2 straight out of the box (almost straight out of the box, my nozzle is 0.5mm instead of 0.4mm, but that is unrelated).

the difference is that you need a hotter bed temp (90-120C), no fan for the first 2mm, after that 30% max and about 14 sec min layer time), overstuffed first layer, big brim (>5mm), and the proper temp for your ABS.

finding the proper temp for your ABS is easy: print a thin-walled cube, start at 235C, and increase the temp every 5-10mm by 5C (make markings where it changes)... when finished, try to break it apart, and note where it starts holding together... that, plus 5C is your lowest print temp at the given layer height... generally, lighter colored ABS needs lower temps than darker colors, black usually goes pretty high, 260C or 265C is not unusual.

 

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We have printed black ABS out of the box on an UM2. It was a medium sized object about 8mm high and 8cm in diameter. Like Joergen says, you cannot have the fan on much for the first layers, the heater cannot keep up with the target temperature when you start to get up to 80-90 degrees and above when the fan is on early. This is with standard office temp in surroundings. Apart from lowering fan also closing the open side will help.

Joergen: how big parts have you printed in ABS on UM2?

Can you increase heater capacity in an "easy" way?

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Joergen: how big parts have you printed in ABS on UM2?

Can you increase heater capacity in an "easy" way?

 

The last part I printed was 17x17x17cm (black ABS, no problems whatsoever). The important aspect is to avoid large, box like structures, they warp like hell. [insert random amount of experience here]. the standard UM2 heated bed will do max 115C, it just take a little bit to get there, plus you need to close off the front to keep the draft out... but 90C is already sufficient for most objects. i thought the heater wouldn't be strong enough, but it's not too bad actually...

 

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Thanks for the info guys!

I'm starting a new project building an RC Crawler from scratch and I think ABS will be much better than PLA. I have a Traxxas Summit as a guide the get my ideas from. It is a 1/10th scale truck, but looks more like a 1/8th scale truck. It's a beast. Printing the parts will save me around $500.00.

 

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Well I hope you keep us updated on that project. I race 1/10 Touring cars (asphalt) and have similar ideas- rear wing/spur gears/body posts designed. But a lot of the remainder is CNC machined graphite and aluminium so attempting a complete TC car is somewhat pointless for me, albeit an interesting design exercise. Good luck!

 

 

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Well I hope you keep us updated on that project. I race 1/10 Touring cars (asphalt) and have similar ideas- rear wing/spur gears/body posts designed. But a lot of the remainder is CNC machined graphite and aluminium so attempting a complete TC car is somewhat pointless for me, albeit an interesting design exercise. Good luck!

I will keep it posted here. First I have to finish my Tantillus project, which is near completion. I'm mostly into the slow crawling type of RC trucks/cars. Aluminum and graphite is super nice, but not necessary for slow crawlers, so all of my parts can be plastic. I've already designed some nice lightbars, front grilles, and back lighting systems for the Axial Deadbolt Crawler. It was for a friend who had to have nothing but the best custom parts! At any rate, it's nice to see others on the forums here interested in the same hobbies.

 

(4) - 5mm LEDs fit into the light sockets, while the wires slide through holes that were tubed out behind the bulb. This simply snaps onto the stock Deadbolt roll cage and has 4 2-3mm holes on each side to screw it into the roll cage. If I want to go all out, then I can cut 4 small lexan circles to cover the sockets so they look realistic.

 

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Here's my first print with abs using the stock hot end from the UM2. This was a w hour print that came out surprisingly well. It's a light bar for the roof rack of my Summit Truck that harnesses (5)-5mm leds.

 

 

 

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