Unable to connect and printer stuck on splash screen

[jmsp 0]

Hello,

 

I'm having some difficulty connecting to my S5 via Cura (or browser).  I am able to ping it, so it is connected to the same wifi network that I am. Turning it off and on again doesn't have much impact, although sometimes cura briefly connects to the printer, but not long enough to start a print job, for example.  In addition, the S5 screen hangs on the 'Ultimaker' screen (rebooting it doesn't change that), so I'm unable to use that interface to troubleshoot.  If I go to 'Manage printers' in Cura, my S5 is listed as one of the 'Connected printers' (not sure if that means anything).  When I hit "Connect via Network', my S5 shows up as one of the options - however, when I click on it, the 'Connect' button is greyed out and there's a message saying 'This printer is not set up to host a group of printers'.  FYI - S5 firmware is version 6.2.2 and Cura is version 5.0.0.  Any advice on how to tackle this issue?  At this point, I'd be happy if I could do a factory reset, as long as it stopped hanging on the 'Ultimaker' screen.  

[gr5 2,167]

So... is this printer a few years old?  The "hard drive" which is actually just a solid state drive which is actually a single chip, can get corrupted.  The chip automatically detects bad blocks but can't repair bad data.  But will never use those blocks again.  So usually you can just re-install the firmware and it works great for another few years.

 

But your's isn't booting so you need to do the "unbricking" procedure although I think Ultimaker calls it "recovery".

 

Anyway it matters if you have an S5R1 (robot on side panel) or an S5R2 (big "U" on the side panel).  Because the S5R1 has deadly voltages underneath.  So in that case you would need to contact your reseller who is supposed to give you special instructions so you don't kill yourself. Anyway this talks about the procedure if you want to read ahead while waiting for your reseller to tell you where to get the recovery procedure and files:

 

[jmsp 0]

Thanks for the response!  It's an S5R2 and we bought it only about a year ago.  Do I still need to contact the reseller or is there a way to 'unbrick' myself?

[gr5 2,167]

You can do it yourself:

https://support.ultimaker.com/hc/en-us/articles/360019088780-Firmware-recovery-Ultimaker-S3-and-Ultimaker-S5

 

I have links to some of the older versions of the firmware if you are trying to avoid the latest and your reseller will have MANY versions of older firmware but if you just want the latest then just click the link.

 

 

[jmsp 0]

Thanks - I tried with the latest version of the firmware (7.1.3), and was able to get it back up and running and do all the calibration stuff.  However, the next day, it was back to being stuck on the "Ultimaker" screen again and was unreachable.  The only idea I had is to try a stable version instead (e.g., 7.0.3), which I'm not able to find anywhere.  Any chance you have a link to a stable version?  Also, any other ideas about what could be going on?  Thanks!  

[gr5 2,167]

This is why I mentioned you contact your reseller.  These files are basically hidden by Ultimaker - I assume because there are special things to know about each version.  With the chip shortage the last few years, sometimes it matters what your serial number is versus some obscure bug that only affects 3 printers or something.  I don't know.

 

But the point is the resellers can help you with this.  Since it looks like you are in USA you can alternatively contact fbrc8.com which builds all the Ultimaker printers ever sold in USA so they built your printer.  support@ultimaker.com and include the serial number of your printer as if you don't they will just ask you that so save yourself a step.  fbrc8 has a fantastic support staff.  Very knowledgable.  Smarter than me.

 

I could be wrong but it sounds like your flash drive got a bunch of bad blocks.  It will keep remapping them until they are all hidden away but meanwhile you may have to re-install the firmware a few times.  If it were me I would just reinstall 7.1.3.  Each time you do, if any bad blocks are found they are mapped away and you will have to do another install.

 

If it's *not* your flash drive then I have no idea.  In that case the log file might be helpful.  But you can't get the log file unless the printer boots or is in maintenance mode or unless you buy a serial cable to talk to the linux box directly allowing you to watch it boot up and gain control when it gets an error.

[jmsp 0]

Thanks - I did try reinstalling 7.1.3 again, and got the same results.  I'll try a few more times, but in the meantime I'll contact the reseller - thanks for your help!  

[gr5 2,167]

Well if it were me I'd get an olimex serial-cable-F and the next time it won't boot then I'd hook that up and see what error messages occur during boot.  That can clear up what program is crashing.  If the error is bad sectors on the "disk" or if it's some other issue - maybe digital factory is crashing on some kind of situation with your models or something.

 

But that's me - I'm pretty decent with linux.  If you are good with linux then that's a great option.  I explain how to do all that stuff here - particularly at the very bottom where I show where the log files are:

http://gr5.org/unbricking/

[jmsp 0]

Thanks gr5 - I took a look at your link, and it seems that the S5R2 (which is what I have) doesn't have an olimex board - I'm assuming that means I can't try your solution, but wanted to double check in case I was reading it wrong...

[gr5 2,167]

It all still works.  I'm pretty sure it has serial connection somewhere.  And it definitely has the uSD card repair process.

 

You don't have to get the serial cable from olimex as many companies make these 3 pin USB-to-serial cables but make sure it is one that can handle 3.3V signals as some only do 5V I think and most of them work with either (not certain).

 

So in other words I think it will just work but you can look up who makes the linux board in your S5 and look at the specs and see if they have a serial connection and if it's the same voltage as the olimex version.  Most likely they are all 3.3V these days.

 

Or I can look it up for you if you have the manufacturer and part number.