Hey i re calibratd my printbed, but the octoprint is messing up alot now, any help
We really can’t help you if you can’t be more specific than “messing up”. We have no idea what is going on.
- 3 weeks later...
Hi @marcosbombi,
We can see that the filament does not stick to the bed.
This bed seems not to be the original that's used for this printer, the original has a clear glass with a light gray aluminium heat mat under.
Another issue is the Octoprint, in my opinion this make 3D printing much harder for a beginner as there is too much can go wrong. (And yes, I have a Raspberry pi 4 with Octoprint.) So, it's better to use the printers SD card, if possible?
Why not use the firmware directly from the UM2?
The bed adjustment is a very good way to know an important part of your printer.
What version of Cura are you using? (I saw that you're going to print a glider wing.)
Then; are you using Windows or Linux?
Thanks
Torgeir
8 hours ago, Torgeir said:Hi @marcosbombi,
We can see that the filament does not stick to the bed.
This bed seems not to be the original that's used for this printer, the original has a clear glass with a light gray aluminium heat mat under.
Another issue is the Octoprint, in my opinion this make 3D printing much harder for a beginner as there is too much can go wrong. (And yes, I have a Raspberry pi 4 with Octoprint.) So, it's better to use the printers SD card, if possible?
Why not use the firmware directly from the UM2?
The bed adjustment is a very good way to know an important part of your printer.
What version of Cura are you using? (I saw that you're going to print a glider wing.)
Then; are you using Windows or Linux?
Thanks
Torgeir
I use mac and Windows for ultimaker cura, how can I fix the filament not sticking, I use octoprint because sometimes I have to make a print for friends that can't wait long due to vacation so I use it to print fast, also the printer was gifted to me
Edited by marcosbombiHi @marcosbombi,
I cannot see how an Ultimaker 2+ print faster using Octoprint, -are you using it with a camera from a different place and saving time this way?
Have you printed successfully with this printer before?
The print bed is important cause it could be a flexible mat or glass surface..
You did not mention what version of Cura you're using, -well?
I'll make some Guessing then, are you printing with light weight PLA?
Based on this assumption, what temperature do you use for the first layers?
We need some more information about your printer, as nozzle size used, type of filament -there is a lot of them with different properties etc.
You tell us, if not, we cannot help much.
Torgeir
1 hour ago, Torgeir said:Hi @marcosbombi,
I cannot see how an Ultimaker 2+ print faster using Octoprint, -are you using it with a camera from a different place and saving time this way?
Have you printed successfully with this printer before?
The print bed is important cause it could be a flexible mat or glass surface..
You did not mention what version of Cura you're using, -well?
I'll make some Guessing then, are you printing with light weight PLA?
Based on this assumption, what temperature do you use for the first layers?
We need some more information about your printer, as nozzle size used, type of filament -there is a lot of them with different properties etc.
You tell us, if not, we cannot help much.
Torgeir
Yes, I save time by doing that, I use Ultimaker Cura 5.3.0, and I have printed successfully with this printer, the print bed is a buildtak flexplate, I use lightweight PLA, and i use 200 degrees.
Hi @marcosbombi,
Aha Ok., this version of Cura have some issues you wont like for this kind of printing.
So for UM2+, it is much better to use Cura 4.13.1 -as this is the best version for your use IMO.
So LW-PLA, this filament can be printed from (200-280) degrees Celsius! -Not many filament cover this span..
The UM2 can only go up to +275 deg,. C, since the PTFE coupler starting to degrade over this temperature.
I'll guess again, that you have cleaned the bed well with IPA better or equal to 90%?
Lets assume this bed have been in use for some times and needing some additional treatment with dish soap and warm water (not hot). This treatment is even needed at some times on the glass bed.
As Prusa have been using flexible (magnetic) bed for long time, they have a good and accurate advice for cleaning such a bed. Here:
How to properly clean a flex-plate in general. Normally, -Isopropyl alcohol, -but when needed Dish soap and water.
There is some good details, make sure to read this.
https://help.prusa3d.com/article/first-layer-issues_1804
After this cleaning, do a standard manual bed leveling using a suited peace of A4 sheet (normally around 0.1 mm thick).
Make sure the layer height is set to 0.2mm and so for the initial layers.
Try to start with a little increased nozzle temperature, as it is kind of easy to glog the nozzle at low temperature.
Also do not start printing direct on your object, much better to learn printing test objects as recommended by ColorFabb.
Here:
https://colorfabb.com/how-to-print-with-lw-pla
As there is two types of LW-PLA (-HT high temp version), here is to learn about this:
https://colorfabb.com/nl/upgrading-from-lw-pla-to-lw-pla-ht-what-you-need-to-know
Here's also a video from CNC Kitchen:
The LW-PLA is known to string -much!
Here is Tom Stratton, demonstrating how to make a wing using Fusion 360 that's make a section of a wing in one go.
No retraction, no Z "lifting" needed and no stringing using LW-PLA:
Here's more about how he made it:
https://www.printables.com/model/261434-vase-mode-wing
You've got something to try, so happy printing.
Torgeir
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marcosbombi 0
Im trying to print a glider but now its messing up again, i changed the sd on the raspberry pi as it was my gopros sd card
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