Hello,
Thank you for your reply.
For S7 the default bed temperature was set to 40 deg. So i just used that setting.
The weird thing is the print was completely sticking the plate. There was no warping at the end. It was the flexbuildplate which starting bending from the ends. Plate was like a concave.
I will try to increase the bed temp to 80-100 deg and will update you.
Regards,
Deepak.
1
What bed temp?
100 deg
I'd try these things (see picture) on the 4 corners.
Did it warp any less at 100C versus 40C? The doors were closed, right? You want it the air 1cm above the plate also as warm as possible.
So I asked some 3d printing expert friends about this topic and one of them mentioned that they've seen warping parts shatter the glass beds as well in rare cases.
The good news is that none of the parts in the center are coming off the plate. So I think these binder clips alone will solve your problem.
Also my friend mentioned that prusa printers have this same issue you are having as it's only magnets holding the flex plate down. You could see what they have learned over on their forum but UM already has the advantage of an enclosed printer.
Hello,
Thank you for you suggestions.
I have tried printing with the clips on. Bed Temp 100 Deg with magiggoo glue for PA.
The print started to warp.
FIne the picture below for your refernece.
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.png.62974a34b198b99340e8e09b232f00de.png)
It never happened with my S5 Glass build plate.
Most Magigoo products are designed for glass.
I really don't know what products are best for your bed but you did that print recently (first photo above) and that worked great. What did you change since then? Change everything back to when it worked (and wash that magigoo off if you didn't use it originally). Except the clips - leave the clips if you are printing near the corners like in your first photos above.
You can actually email the Magigoo people and they are fantastic. They are fanatical about creating a fantastic product. By now I'm sure they have tested their products with many types of plates. They have some UM printers but possibly not the S7. Magigoo has many different product for many types of printe bed and material and this is not a scam but they really did a good job with researching the best possible product that (typically) releases when the bed cools.
What does UM recommend for surface treatment for the S7 and for your print material (Nylon). For Nylon on glass I use wood glue mixed with 10 parts water (which I think is PVA). That glue stick that comes with most UM printers also has PVA glue in it. One can spread that on glass, wet a tissue and mix it up and remove most of it right there on the glass. Then heat it up until it dries.
Let me explain a little:
40C might be the ideal temp for you. I really don't know.
I recommended 100C for reduced stress - for reduced shrinking of the higher layers. But it might hurt adhesion. 100C for nylon is also good because nylon is more flexible at 100C so it will flex a little which spreads the strong forces to more area so it sticks better instead of all the lifting force on the very tip of the corner. But it might not *stick* as well at that temp. I really don't know much about these metal print beds.
So although 100C is *normally* much better for nylon (and 60C for PLA) than colder temps, I don't know about other possible factors.
Hello,
I have used the same setting for both the prints above. I have changed nothing.
Bed Temp: 100deg.
UM recommends not to use any glue for any material unless specified by the material manufacturer.
You can also print most of the material with cold plate (bed temp: 0 deg).
For Nylon the default setting is 40deg.
I had no problem printing TPU95A and Tough PLA with no glue and cold plate. But Nylon I am still struggling.
Also, For Nylon the bed bends even if I print just a single model in the center.
Hello,
I cleaned the flexiplate with ISA and tried printing with nylon with 40deg bed temp and no glue.
which is recommended by UM. The print did not stick to the plate.
I am having the same problem on a bambu printer. I was thinking about making a glass plate for the printer. I am trying to print PC-FR. Can here for help. Have you gotten any success
3 hours ago, ben_lockwood said:I am having the same problem on a bambu printer. I was thinking about making a glass plate for the printer. I am trying to print PC-FR. Can here for help. Have you gotten any success
This isnt really the right place to ask for help with a Bambu.. if anything in a different thread..
Was just trying to see what other people are doing to resolve this problem. I know the S7 has a flex plate and was wondering how they fixed it.
1
Or maybe Ben will learn something and share it here.
1
I still think higher temps are better as that will reduce the upper layer shrinkage. Other ideas:
- Enclose the printer to get the air up to around 40C
- Redesign the part so that the upper layers don't pull so hard - maybe use selective ribs instead of solid top? Maybe you can do a hexagon pattern (in your design - or you can disable "top skin" in cura and use a hex infill pattern.
- Use brim as this is exactly what brim is supposed to reduce.
- Contact magigoo
- Try pva glue - Either:
A) Use the supplied glue stick, spread it around very very thin and sparse leaving areas with no glue. Then take wet paper towel or tissue and spread it around evenly (and also remove most of it).
B) Mix Elmer's wood glue about 1 part glue and about 10-20 parts water. Mix it well. I use a jar with a lid so I can shake it over the sink. Then use a small paint brush to spread it on the print bed.
A or B will make your parts stick extremely well. I don't have a metal flex plate so I don't know what might go wrong. You could check the "bambu" printer discussion. Or better, Prusa discussion as they have a huge following and lots of those printers have flexible metal.
I really want to know what you learn. I print with Nylon all the time and it's one of my favorite materials. Very very tough material, temp resistant, and you can dye it any color super easy.
Nylon shrinks... its a feature of that material. as such when it shrinks, you either- 1 get internal stresses, but don't see them on the print. - 2 get it lifting off the bed. or - 3 get the bed warping up.
this is a symptom of the material, rather than the beds fault.
- have you dried your nylon? - 70C for 12 hours. even if fresh out of the packet!
-2 can you ensure the ambient temperature is as high as possible, with no cooling drafts or layer fan on?
I have tried a flexible PEI plate on a s5, and eventually went back to glass for larger prints and nylon for this reason.
another option- print the part vertically- highest face point up.
10 hours ago, gr5 said:I still think higher temps are better as that will reduce the upper layer shrinkage. Other ideas:
- Enclose the printer to get the air up to around 40C
- Redesign the part so that the upper layers don't pull so hard - maybe use selective ribs instead of solid top? Maybe you can do a hexagon pattern (in your design - or you can disable "top skin" in cura and use a hex infill pattern.
- Use brim as this is exactly what brim is supposed to reduce.
- Contact magigoo
- Try pva glue - Either:
A) Use the supplied glue stick, spread it around very very thin and sparse leaving areas with no glue. Then take wet paper towel or tissue and spread it around evenly (and also remove most of it).
B) Mix Elmer's wood glue about 1 part glue and about 10-20 parts water. Mix it well. I use a jar with a lid so I can shake it over the sink. Then use a small paint brush to spread it on the print bed.
A or B will make your parts stick extremely well. I don't have a metal flex plate so I don't know what might go wrong. You could check the "bambu" printer discussion. Or better, Prusa discussion as they have a huge following and lots of those printers have flexible metal.
I really want to know what you learn. I print with Nylon all the time and it's one of my favorite materials. Very very tough material, temp resistant, and you can dye it any color super easy.
I have been printing Nylon for 2 years on my S5. Never had any problem.
I will try few things and will update you. I have also contacted magiggoo for help. Lets see what they come back with.
4 hours ago, DJangid said:
I have been printing Nylon for 2 years on my S5. Never had any problem.
I will try few things and will update you. I have also contacted magiggoo for help. Lets see what they come back with.
I have printed 100s of prints out of PA-12 and PA-6 CF on a S5. I have found that just Elmer's glue stick (I use this) or like gr5 said the woodglue mix works great, even for very large prints.
Not that you want to do this but you could but you could... Go to your local hardware store and see if they can cut you a piece of glass for the size of the S7. The other option is to get the S5 build plate and binder clip it to the side. I prefer printing on glass for the most part with just about everything. If you switch to glass you will be able to use the magigoo and it will work perfect. I would try glue on the flex plate.
I tried printing with Magiggoo ultrafuse 316L.
It was successfull. Print was perfect. It stuck the bed nicesly.
I am going to stick with this glue for now untill I hear something back from magiggoo.
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As far as I know, Ultrafuse 316L is nothing like Nylon.
The reason PLA is so easy to print and so beautifully is because it's softening temp is at 52C. With air temp around 30C (just above a 60C print bed) you only have 22C of cooling that causes shrinking. Nylon hardens around 120C. Around 90C difference from typical air temps just above build plate. So about 4X more shrinking!
It's not quite 4X harder to print because Nylon is also more flexible which helps.
Printing the part on the short end is a very interesting idea. Maybe add some supports.
HERE'S A WHOLE NEW IDEA!
Print the part 5mm above the stage and support it with tree supports. In cura preferences you can uncheck the box that says something like "automatically drop part to build plate". Then click on the part and select the move tool and set the Z value to 5mm. Slice and see what kinds of support you get. You want support structures that aren't well connected in X and Y so that when the part itself starts shrinking the support moves enough to not stress the connection to the bed.
There is a feature called "raft" which can also help. It does all this for you (moves the part up 1mm or so and builds a raft underneath that can flex a little.
Its been a month now and Ive been printing on my homemade glass plate. Its been working great! not any problems related to the bed warping this time. I have found it works great even for nylon. Polycarb works the best!
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gr5 2,176
Although I know a ton about 3d printing, I have never used a flexiplate and haven't learned a lot about them but I do know things about nylon.
As each layer cools it pulls inward so it would make sense to me that the cooling nylon would slowly (after maybe 1cm of printing) pull inward and flex the plate upwards around the edges of the print. Especially on the longer dimensions of the print.
One solution is to keep the bed hot.
Then I see... 40C bed temp??? Really? For glass the default is 80C I think for nylon. I actually increase that to 100C to reduce warping during printing. Nylon gets "hard" around 120C so I only have to deal with shrinking range of about 20C. But with the build plate at 40C... 120-40 is 80C of shrinking - 4X more than what I experience.
Can the flexplate handle hotter temps than 40C? I don't know much about it but I'd consider going up to 100C if the flexiplate doesn't care.
PLEASE let me know what you learn so I can help out the next person.
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