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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. EDM wire- funny that is exactly what I use. not too hard it will scratch or break, but strong enough for the job. I did not mention it, as most people would have no idea what you are talking about!
  2. attached is something printed in yellow Esun PLA+ standard Draft mode in cura, no changes at all. filament was dried for 8 hours first. .04mm AA nozzle
  3. There's plenty of us having success with esun PLA +. Not sure its fair to blame the printer. Either you have a bad batch, or a profile setting wrong. try using the generic engineering profile for PLA, and set the shell wall thickness to 1.5mm do a test print and go from there.
  4. I agree- all that screen space, left blank to look pretty. Give us nozzle temps, any speed of flow offsets introduced, and Z height. all far more useful than a funny circular clock thing.
  5. something rattling? something loose on the frame? might not be a moving part at all. i thought i had an issue, but it was the tools on the wall rattling from vibrations.
  6. is this only with esun PLA? does it work fin with other brands?
  7. yes the Z babystep function in marlin is one of the things I really MISS. i would always have a 5 row brim setup 1mm off the print. it gave time to adjust the offset to perfect every time, regardless of the material
  8. I just redid the calibration process with the calibration card again, this time making it a little 'looser'. worked fine - have been using PEI sheet for months with no issues
  9. as an update- it appear that the firmware works by using the movement rates relative to the stepper motor at the beginning as a reference. So if there is no flow detected at the beginning, it will still continue to run. I think this is waht was happenign in my case. A little official description on how things work, even just a few paragraphs would help a lot with fault finding- its a shame the information on how these parts work is so scarce.
  10. please Ultimaker firmware guys, please give us this back! The nice thing about it is it stored its own offset data for each build plate... This means when using a 3rd party build plate- be it a spring steel, Gardoplate, PEI or whatever, it kept the data, and one could swap back to glass without any need to manually calibrate again. I have been using an spring steel PEI sheet from aliexpress for 2 months, and love it compared to glass.- why you guys don't offer something similar I don't understand. The fact that the firmware functionality was already there, a
  11. Has anyone reverse engineered one of these yet? I'm assuming its just git a fan out and a thermosister in there? It wold nice to know the pin outs in the plug and make a enclosure that was inter grated to the software. i'm not prepared to drop the money they are asking for a hood and a fan though!
  12. why not simply put a thermostat in line with the existing thermoresister on the print head.??? these things trigger at 70C, so will only trigger when the melted plastic hits them. the open or short circuit on the thermosister will stop error and stop the printer before it becomes a disaster. they are small enough to fit behind the print block. this would cost Ultimaker nothing to add to future print heads- its something 3d systems had years ago on their (awlful) cubepro printers to ensure the heatsink was never over temperature. Could even be easily
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