Trying to repair a bricked Ultimaker 2+

[rockerito91 0]

I'm trying to recover a bricked Ultimaker 2+. The printer was not working well, it was not recognized on any PC using USB. The printer showed the error "broken z switch ER 05" but the switch had no problem, everything seemed in order. After that I decided to flash the most recent firmware that I found in cura (MarlinUltimaker2plus.hex) for the UM2+, I did this using a usbasp programmer through AVRDUDESS and connected to the ICSP1 port of the atmega 2560.

 

Later I turned on the printer but it no longer worked , it didn't even show anything on the display.

 

I also tried downloading several versions of Marlin, compiling them on Arduino and loading them directly from the Arduino ide using the usbasp programmer, it got flashed but it didn't work either.

 

I tried loading the .hex with bootloader generated from Arduino, using AVRDUDESS, but it didn't work either, the printer is still lifeless, there is no sign of operation.

 

This board is an Ultimaniboard rev. 2.1.4.

 

Does anyone know what I could be doing wrong? Maybe when flashing the Atmega 2560 from AVRDUDESS or Arduino I'm missing a step? Please provide me with your kind help and knowledge, I am very urgent to repair this printer, if not I may lose my job :(

[gr5 2,224]

I suspect something is broken.  It's not your fault. You can't break it so easily.

 

However I have many times recovered an arduino based printer that wasn't working very well.  But I was doing it through USB.  You used that programmer thing which I would imagine is more reliable.

 

Where did you get that firmware?  I'm thinking that's the wrong firmware.  It's kind of your only hope.  I'd try the tinkermarlin firmware since it is better anyway (has many features) and I know it works fine.  Make sure to get the UM2+ (not extended) version (second to last hex file):

https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V17.10.1

 

 

[rockerito91 0]

Thanks for your answer

 

After doing several tests, I came to the conclusion that the Atmega16u2 that makes the USB connection was defective, so I decided to change it. Later it was possible for the PC to recognize the ultiboard, and so I loaded the UM2+ firmware.

 

After this I managed to get it recognized by CURA and I updated the printer again. Things were looking good until I got to the same point I was at at the beginning, the “Z switch broken, ER_05” error.

 

After reviewing several alternatives, including loading several different Marlin firmwares, I realize that the error is due to the fact that there is no movement in any of the X,Y,Z axes.

 

I tried to move the steppers from the printer menu but got no response. I measured some voltages on the A4988 drivers, I found that it actually has 24V and 5V, the connection to GND is ok, the connections to the steppers are OK. The printer is capable of heating the bed, heating the extruder, showing different options on the display, turning on fans, but it does not move, none of the steppers work, not even the extruder one.

 

Any additional suggestions you can give me? Is it possible that I need to change the A4988 so that the steppers can be moved?

[gr5 2,224]

There is a common problem with this board where the relay K1 fails.  It's pretty easy to fix but if K1 fails then the bed and nozzle won't heat up.  Are you absolutely sure the bed heats up?  Did you feel it with your hand?

 

The next most common failure is stepper driver but never all of the stepper drivers at once.  Try to heat the nozzle to 180C and then do the MOVE command to move the feeder motor (some firmware versions won't let you move the filament until it gets above 170C).

 

And again - maybe you have the wrong firmware.  Where did you get it?  There are many versions of Marlin and different printers have the steppers on different pins.  Again, please try tinker Marlin - I linked to it above.

[rockerito91 0]

Thanks for your fast response.

 

Yes, I'm sure that the bed heats up, also the extruder, I also checked that relay and it's ok, it delivers the 24V.

 

I used the command for loading filament, the extruder heated but the stepper didn't move.

 

Also I heated the nozzle to 180c and tried to move the stepper but it didn't worked.

 

I compiled and uploaded the Marlin bugfix-2.1.x using arduino IDE, and with the configuration files fot the UM2+:

 

https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/tree/bugfix-2.1.x

 

Also I used the CURA version that is attached as a ZIP.

 

Tomorrow Ill try tinker marlin.

 

Thanks again!

 

ConfigurationUM2+.zip MarlinUltimaker2plus.zip

[gr5 2,224]

I just don't understand how all 4 steppers could fail at the same time.  Are they all plugged in?  Well keep in mind it's never the steppers but the stepper drivers.  

 

Also try a factory reset.  I don't see how that could be it but what happens is this: each version of firmware stores a few things (like steps/mm for each axis and about 200 other things) in a special part of memory that isn't affected when you load a new firmware.  Each newer version of firmware had more data stored in there and the newer versions all know how to read the older data formats but not vice versa.  So if you ever install an older version it's good to do a "factory reset" which resets all of those values back to defaults.  Unfortunately it then makes you level the bed which won't work for you and may cause you to be in an infinite loop - not sure.  I think you can just click through it?  Probably not.  Still I think it's worth a try:  "factory reset".

 

 

[rockerito91 0]

Thanks again for your fast response.

 

All the steppers are pugged in.

 

I tried the factory reset with 3 different firmwares, I always get the Z switch broken ER_05 error in step 4, when the printer tries to level the bed and dont have any signal from Z switch. When I manualy click the 3 endstop switches, the printer finishes all the steps for the initial config. but still the same problem, none of the steppers move.

 

I don't know what else can be done, maybe is there any way to test the stepper drivers?

 

Any othe idea?

[Allrounder 39]

Hello,

 

I think gr5 is right about clearing EEprom memory, it doesn't seem to be cleared.

I would connect the printer to Pronterface and enter M503, there the limit switches should all be on "closed" instead of "open", if not you have a problem with homing direction and limit switch state wrong, then nothing moves.

[rockerito91 0]

Hello, the EEprom is always cleared when a new firmware is installed, the printer asks to clear EEprom in the first run.

 

I installed pronterface, entered M503 and got the response that is attached as a image. I can´t see anything related to limit switches 😞

 

 

[rockerito91 0]

Hello again.

 

Using pronterface I entered M119, all the limit switches are on "open"

 

So, what is the problem here? what woluld be the next step?

 

Thanks in advance for all your help.

[rockerito91 0]

When I manually push all the limit sitches i got the "Trigerred" status.

[Allrounder 39]

Hi,

 

sorry, M119 is correct.

When I manually push all the limit sitches i got the "Trigerred" status.

This means that the limit switches have been triggered, so the limit stops are all ok, nothing is broken.

Can you Homing with Ponterface?

And you can move XYZ+ and XYZ-?

Can you check in Marlin configuration.h if this line looks like this?

#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING false // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

Your endstop is really closed and must be defined as closed, otherwise the board thinks you have a cable break and shows you the message "Z switch broken, ER_05" error.

Edited October 17, 2023 by Allrounder
I have corrected a few things

[rockerito91 0]

Hello,

 

I can't move any stepper or homing using pronterface.

 

In configuration.h file I found this:

 

// Mechanical endstop with COM to ground and NC to Signal uses "false" here (most common setup).
#define X_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Y_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.
#define Z_MIN_ENDSTOP_INVERTING true  // Set to true to invert the logic of the endstop.

 

So I need to change that to false, compile and upload using Arduino, right?

 

Thanks again.

[gr5 2,224]

@Allrounder - his steppers don't move.  Ever.  The limit switches are fine.

 

Well the simple fix is to get another PCB.  It looks like they are pretty expensive (over $300 USD).  You can get a chinese version from aliexpress for $90 USD.  It might need changes to the firmware.  Not sure.  The stepper drivers may be different but should work.  And you'll probably have to wait a month for shipping.

 

You could probe the pin with a scope that pulses the stepper and verify that the problem is the stepper driver and not the arduino-like chip.  But unless you want to do some serious surface mount soldering (needs special equipment) you'll need to replace the whole PCB either way. 

 

I don't see any easy solutions.

[Allrounder 39]

5 hours ago, rockerito91 said:

So I need to change that to false, compile and upload using Arduino, right?

No, ULtimaker Board uses an open system, so ENDSTOP_INVERTING true is correct, just thought it said false.

Gr5, you mean its stepper drivers are all dead at the same time?

And how does the board detect a cable break when the limit switches are open?

[gr5 2,224]

7 hours ago, Allrounder said:

And how does the board detect a cable break when the limit switches are open?

It moves the stepper until it hits the limit switch and if it never hits the switch it assumes it's the switch and not the stepper.  It figures the operator is smart enough to notice that nothing moved.  Also if you go to ultimaker.com/er05 it specifically mentions that perhaps your steppers are not moving.

 

90% of the time the failure is caused by debris.

 

It's common for one stepper driver to fail but this is the first time I've heard of all 4 failing.  Maybe the printer was printing in a hot (> 25C) room and the drivers burnt out one at a time during a print and no one noticed until after all 4 burnt out.  In the Netherlands where these printers were designed and tested, 25C is crazy hot.  They think you will die if it gets any hotter than that, lol.  They bicycle everywhere in shorts in the winter while it is snowing.  In other countries, <25C is time to put on your winter clothes (e.g. a sweater).

 

So these printers don't work great >25C.  Some people put the printer on it's side (it will print fine on it's side or even upside down) and then remove the cover and put a fan blowing on the electronics.  I've never had to do that.

[rockerito91 0]

Hi all

 

Last quesfion before I buy another board.

 

It is about the step signal that comes from the arduino to the stepper drivers, I measured it using an oscilloscope, and I saw 1.2 volt pulses. Is this OK or it has to be 5 volts pulses?

 

And, Im from Colombia, would you please recommend any safe place or website to buy that board at USA?

 

 

[Allrounder 39]

Hello again,

 

you don't have to buy a UM board, it's not up to date.

Here, for example, one has used a SKR 1.4 board and works fine.

Think about what is better for you.

 

 

[gr5 2,224]

Best place to buy Ultimaker parts in USA is fbrc8.com.  If they don't have it in their web shop then just email them: sales@fbrc8.com.  They will sell you any part.  They will want your serial number.

 

They build every Ultimaker printer sold in USA so of course they have all the parts.

 

However they might force you to use a reseller inside your country.  But give it a try.

 

Resellers can also sell any part - the parts just aren't always in the webshop.

 

[rockerito91 0]

Thanks for all your responses, I definetely have to buy a new board.

 

I tried changing the Arduino because it was super hot, but nothing different happened, also changed by firmware the Z stepper to the E2 stepper, but same results 😞

 

 

[gr5 2,224]

e2 stepper also dead?  Something very weird here.  That driver shouldn't have ever been used so it should be fine.

 

Okay - I can imagine if the 24V went to 50V, that could destroy all 5 stepper drivers simulataneously.  It would only have to be 50V for a few seconds.

[gr5 2,224]

Or if the 24V was somehow plugged in backwards.  It shouldn't be possible but maybe if you shove the plug hard enough.  Yeah that seems more likely than the over voltage scenario.

[Allrounder 39]

9 hours ago, rockerito91 said:

I tried changing the Arduino because it was super hot, but nothing different happened, also changed by firmware the Z stepper to the E2 stepper, but same results 😞

If I understand correctly, you have moved the PINs Z to PINs E1(E2)? Either you did wrong or your board is defective or maybe your power supply is not ok? Maybe your new board will also break? You only had to activate E1(E2) in Marlin instead of moving the PINs. You can still enable E1(E2) and try it out.

[gr5 2,224]

Most versions of Marlin do not let you switch to E2 in the firmware.  Possibly the TinkerGnome version of Marlin does but most people don't install that.  I love that version myself.

 

Anyway @rockerito91 has been building Marlin himself and apparently has found how to edit pins.h which lets you change any axis to use any pins which makes it pretty trivial to switch (in this case) the Z axis to drive out to the E2 driver.  @rockerito91 has even replaced the arduino chip so he seems pretty competent in things firmware and hardware.  More than me!

[gr5 2,224]

@rockerito91, there is one cheaper solution - you can get a PCB for the UM2 through Alibaba.  It will be a different chinese made board and might not work and may take 4 weeks to arrive but it will be probably 5X cheaper.  The PCB is open source so it's easy for someone to download the PCB files and order/make their own.  The harder part is getting the correct parts and soldering them in the right places.