Specimen with 100% infill underextruding towards seamposition

[gr5 2,178]

"we transfer" link gives me an error.  Can you check it?

 

30 seconds sounds extremely slow.  almost 4X too slow.  If the bar is in the middle, as in the photo, I can't imagine how it wouldn't have the right tension.  however, the feeder comes apart pertty easily and quickly and it's important that the tensioning screw is *inside* the housing.  Most people (including me) screwed (pun!) up the reassembly the first time.  fbrc8.com has great instructions on this kind of thing.

 

I don't know how strong you are - can you pick up the printer with one hand?  If not then you probably can't do the test one handed either.  I don't know.  It's too hard to quantify.  Ideally you do the test with a "good" printer and also with a "bad" printer and then you just "know" for the rest of your life.  So do the test with other printers when you get the opportunity some day and you will eventually be an expert on feeder strength.

 

At this point I recommend you take the feeder apart and make sure it's assembled properly.

[breakkid 0]

Try this one.

https://wetransfer.com/downloads/a734c904a2d38d336f3c2263cf3a8e2a20240112163925/2af281

 

Screw was in the housing, when I reassembled it. I made every step precisely that was shown in fbrc8's video.

 

 

[breakkid 0]

Took the feeder apart, cleaned IT from some Filament debris and reassembled IT properly. The First part i printed Had underextrusion again. First Pic with 100 infill, second with 80. Changed to the pla/pha. 

 

I can Pick the Printer Up, but i cant compare weight wir a force. I have No Feeling for Something Like this at all. 

[breakkid 0]

How about an extruder calibration?

[gr5 2,178]

No need to print an entire print if it fails the "12 second test".

 

If it were me I would take apart the whole print core but I have lots of spares.  So maybe that's not good to do.  Can you borrow a core from someone with a working printer?  The cores in the S3/S5/S7 and UM3 are all the same.  Can you order a print core?  They are about 120 euros/dollars I think.

 

Actually I would do some cold pulls manually (not through menu system).  I would remove the bowden from the print head and insert the filament directly in the head.  Google around about the procedure (same procedure for any printer type).  I would put the head in the corner so as less likely to bend the rods that go through the print head.  I would do at least 5 cold pulls each at a colder and colder temp until you can't pull it out.  At least 3 clean cold pulls at the coldest temp where you can just barely pull it out.

 

I would check how the filament gets to the feeder to make sure it doesn't have extra friction.

 

If you do take apart the core here is a video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ln_tMz8Dwd0

 

Right now this printer is not functioning properly.  I would consider it "broken" even though it somewhat works.

 

There is a teflon part inside the print core.  It may need to be replaced.  Are you the person who said there was only like 300 meters and 300 hours on the print core?  That's nothing if that was you - it should be like new if that's true.

 

I'm a little stumped right now but it's got to be the "hot end" or the "cold end" (feeder) and it sounds like the feeder is okay but it's failing the 12 second test so something is seriously wrong.

[gr5 2,178]

Find a metal needle .25-.35mm in diameter.  Maybe from a metal brush where you clip off one piece.  While at 200C, poke that in and out of the tip of the nozzle dozens of times scraping the inside and pushing gunk up into the nozzle.  Then cool to around 90C and pull that out as your next cold pull to get any gunk out.

 

After you can see through the entire core and out through the nozzle hole, take a small piece of filament and stick it down into the print core while cold and not in the printer.  Feel for extra high resistance in the path.

[breakkid 0]

I've had to change the printer to a different one, this time it is an ultimaker 3. I was able the reproduce the same underextrusion. I tried playing around with the infill line distance. I've noticed that if I change it to 0,48 mm by using a 0,5 mm line width there will be no more bigger gaps in the infill. I changed the infill pattern back to "Lines".  I've added another wall, skin wall count to 1, changed back to "infill before walls" and I still had a few small gaps. But at least the lines were touching together at a few points. After using a colder temperature the gaps became again bigger, I've decided then to print with a different PLA and a third Ultimaker 3 (right now I have 6 here in this room) and the gaps were still appearing. So whatever it is: Either my slicing file is not printable or all three ultimakers are underextruding somehow.