@gr5 Based on your own experience and knowledge, when do the CPUs for these start to fail? I had similar problems last year that went away after buying a new power brick, but they've started to recur. I've had mine for almost 6 years now, and I'm debating whether I shouldn't get a new Ulticontroller. (For the record, I'm using Tinkergnome on the current one).
Ultimaker 2+ unexpectedly stops halfway through printing and restarts
- 2 months later...
the cpu basically never fails but things that have the highest power tend to fail the most so on the PCB the things that would fail would be:
fan controllers
stepper controllers
heater controllers
It's normal for the PCB to last more than 6 years. More likely to fail than the PCB are things like nozzle sensor, heaters, belts, bearings. And the power brick.
@gr5 Thanks for the quick reply!
Since you mentioned the stepper drivers, another problem I periodically have comes to mind: sometimes the print head will randomly move to the either the X or Y boundary and then starts vibrating/rattling rapidly, (as if it's trying to do a very unconvincing impression of a machine gun). Could that be a sign that the stepper drivers are starting to fail?
Also, how likely is it for the DC port on the back to fail after 5 years or so? (I do turn the printer around relatively often to change the spool thanks to the layout of my fume hood).
Edited by stuffedworm@stuffedworm - your description could be 2 completely different issues.
1) Does this happen when the printer homes the head? If so then it's having trouble reaching either the X or Y limit switch. It's the axis that shakes. These can move over time. Push the print head around towards the rear left corner and listen for the click on each axis. One of them is probably hard to reach. Locate the limit switches. Figure out what hits the limit switches. I can give you more details if this is the issue but first let me know if it's the X or Y axis.
2) Sometimes in the middle of a print the head moves all the way to the edge. This has to do with bit errors.
It happens in the middle of a print, actually. I've never seen it happen while homing. What are the typical sources of bit errors for these printers? (Aside from cosmic rays, that is)
Edited by stuffedworm- Solution
Have you tried using a different SD-card? SD-cards can go bad over time, and can be a source of bit-rot.
Did you push the head to the left and rear positions and listen for the click of the limit switches?
If it's the middle of the print then it's probably data errors. Are you using a USB cable or an SD card? USB cable printing is not officially supported and personally I don't recommend it.
@gr5 I have, the limit switches still click, and the homing works fine. Also, I'm using an SD card (the same one it came with when I got it back in 2018). After seeing what @ahoeben said in this thread, I took a look at said SD card, and the contacts look pretty scratched up. As such, I've started using a new one as of a couple days ago and the error has yet to recur so far.
Edited by stuffedworm
- 1
I had an SD card wear out an do some weird things on a print too.
It sure is hard to source those old 4gb SD cards!
I just started using Octoprint when that happened
I think the UM2 will take up to 32GB but no higher - I'm not positive though.
On 7/3/2024 at 9:54 PM, gr5 said:I think the UM2 will take up to 32GB but no higher - I'm not positive though.
I'll double-check when I get home, but I'm fairly certain that the new card is 32gb. IIRC that's an Arduino-imposed limit for some reason.
PS: I've managed a couple overnight prints since swapping cards with no issues, so I think it's fair to say worn card contacts were definitely the culprit!
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gr5 2,265
It could be the power brick or it could be the cpu. I suspect it's the power brick as those die more often.
You can prove it's the bed by not using the heated bed. You can use painters tape on the glass, clean the painters tape with Isopropyl alcohol to remove the waxy surface of the tape (otherwise parts won't stick). Re-level as the tape has a thickness to compensate for. Try to do a print. If the computer doesn't reset then the problem was with the power supply. Make sure the heated bed temp is set to zero when doing the test!
To me it really looks like the power supply. They cost about $90 USD. If you want a cheaper solution, note also that the printer is using the most power when it is heating up. You can force the printer to use less energy with some special firmware for the UM2:
https://github.com/TinkerGnome/Ultimaker2Marlin/releases/tag/V19.03.1
Download the hex file about 5th blue link from the bottom. Make sure it says "plus". NOT "dual".
Tinker-MarlinUltimaker2plus-19.03.1.hex
You need a USB connected from the printer to your computer to install firmware. You can use Cura (or arduino ide) to install custom software. It will ask for this hex file.
Once the new firmware is installed, find the "power budget" feature. I believe the default budget is:
nozzle: 25W
bed: 150W
total budget: 175W
Only mess with the total budget. Lower that by 50W (50 watts). That will reduce the power only to the heated bed.
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