Thanks for your reply. So you think I should probe the voltage supply to see if it outputs 24 volts as a start?
The issues you bring up sound quite complicated and major...
Thanks again
Thanks for your reply. So you think I should probe the voltage supply to see if it outputs 24 volts as a start?
The issues you bring up sound quite complicated and major...
Thanks again
Hi
just following up here. I am in the need of a bit of guidance on how to proceed to salvage this printer. @gr5 has been exceptionally helpful in the past and trying to loop them in now.
1) I like torgeir's advice. I would check the voltage of the 24V supply somewhere past K1. But I don't think this is more than 20% likely the problem. Usually K1 fails completely (no power at all to steppes and heater). I don't know if it will ever fail partially where it has a high resistance. This seems unlikely and also I think it would burn up.
2) So if your steps/mm is way off then it would explain your videos. I'd do a "factory reset". This will set the steps/mm back to factory defaults. When you are changing the firmware it tries to pull in the previous values for this and 100 other settings but sometimes it gets confused and you have to do a "factory reset". Only do this right after updating the firmware if the printer is acting weird.
3) Check the mechanical resistance. Push the print head around when power is off or when the printer is idle. You should be able to push the head with one finger of each hand pushing on the slide blocks in the gantry. One finger on left block and one finger on right block. If not try a bit of oil or maybe the center rods are not perpendicular (this happens a lot and the skew causes a lot of friction.
Hi @odjassemi and @gr5.
Thanks for the kind of words.
I'll would assume all that standard practice are regularly done, yes plus cleaning -and oiling the shafts..
When looking and hearing the noise the stepper makes, it's a typical sign of very lo current -so typical...
And sure, a relay can fail like that. I can assure you -after a very long time working with electronics.
If you can handle a "multi meter", -in order to do some measuring -I'll put up wiring etc. in here for you.
(BTW., the main board PCB are much like the old UM2 PCB, but sure with firmware that's changed for use with UM3.)
I'll also know that the current for all the "power" users are controlled by the firmware, so this are another thing -later on.
However, during the time -I've learned that's the "mechanical things", that's most of the time always cause problem when there are some fails, not the electronics.
In 3D printing, it sometimes might be our programming "software" changing parameters that's totally fails our printing objects.
For the firmware "variables", a factory reset can fix "issues" that might become affected..
Thanks
Torgeir
Edited by Torgeir
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Torgeir 280
Hi @odjassemi,
just been reading through all posting about your UM3E.
Your latest video show us that your problem become worse.
However, the processor part of you printer seems to work.
When the X stepper try to move, it's not able to do a proper step and barley moving at all.
The stepper are not able to make it to the stop switch (i.e. cannot calibrate, hence ER-17)
On the main PC board, there is one relay controlling all power users current and if this relay fails things like this "can" happen. -There is not enough current for the 24 V DC power users.
The 5 V DC are all the time present as it's not controlled by this relay.
Also worth to note is the power supply in your UM3 are very robust..
I'll think a voltage check of the 24V power are a good point to start.
Most of all the electronics details for the UM3 are available, so this are not a problem.
Thanks
Torgeir
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