Printing in Burbank California

[cgbobio 2]

Just got my Ultimaker 2 delivered via Fedex today and have started setting it up. When I looked on the SD card for the test robot, I only found the MiniCalTest.gcode. Any chance I can download the robot somewhere?

Also had no grease included in the box and the glass was not under the build platform, but was standing up inside the printer. Just glad it didn't get broken!

 

[mnis 11]

Hello and congratulations on your decision to purchase. :-P

That was on my UM2 SD card:

SevenZip (.7z)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109895519/UM2-SD-CARD/UM2-SD-CARD.7z

...or...

self extracting (.exe)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/109895519/UM2-SD-CARD/UM2-SD-CARD.exe

 

Best wishes

Markus

[mnis 11]

For the linear guide (X/Y), use all 40 to 60 hours of operation, sewing machine oil or gun oil, not WD40!

Exclusively the Z-axis Teflon containing grease is used. It is perhaps every three to five months once required a lot smaller than a pea.

The grease for the Z-axis and some tool is part of the delivery of your UM2. You can ask for a subsequent delivery via support ticket.

Markus

[illuminarti 18]

Welcome to the forum! As Markus suggests, sewing machine oil is good for lubricating the x and y axes, and the cross-rods through the head. The green grease that UM (should) include in the box is just for the z-screw - but in practice, it is very rarely needed.

 

[cgbobio 2]

Thanks guys. I did not receive any grease with my Ultimaker and after the first few prints, the hobbed gear on the material feeder came off. Apparently they didn't tighten the lock screw down on it. I got it back on and used locktight on the lock screw, but now my printhead seems to hit the front of the printer and not return to it's home position at the end of prints...

I'm not sure why it is doing that since the only thing I did was reattach the gear and lock screw... I tried the factory reset and went through setup again, but the head still does not return to the home position after a print.

Any suggestions? Oh by the way Markus, the Robot was included with the Cura download. I just hadn't run the software yet to see it there.

 

[gr5 2,189]

The Z screw grease is in a very small, clear plastic tube. The grease is green so the tube is green. It should be in the same bag as a screwdriver, a roll of blue tape, and I forget what else. You probably won't need it for a year or so. The grease is *only* for the Z screw. Don't use it anywhere else.

 

[mnis 11]

Experiments directly on the machine:

"ADVANCED"> "Home head".

Check if it works fine.

I forgot to mention it, Cura has thereby a robot. But I thought your SD card has only the "MiniCalTest.gcode". And that's why I gave you my entire SD card contents.

Markus

[cgbobio 2]

Thanks gr5, I went over the parts list (page 12) when I unpacked my Ulitimaker 2 and there was no grease, screwdriver or tape. According to the list, the grease was the only missing part so I'm guessing they no longer include the items you mentioned. I know I don't need the grease yet, I was just commenting on it missing from the package is all.

I am worried about the lack of thread lock on the set screws though... if they didn't use it on the material feeder gear, what are the chances that all of the other gears will eventually come loose as well? I am not looking forward to taking apart the machine to fix an oversight on their assembly process.

Markus, again thank you for the advice, but I have already been using the "Home head" feature and all it does is send the print head to the left of the printer, not to the back corner like it used to.

 

[mnis 11]

You should check all the pulley's are tight.

There is a lot of sensitivity necessary, these little headless screws tighten without destroying something on the threads.

So do not try to get something by force to hold!

Turn your machine off, and slide the print head to the left end position. You should have a click of the microswitch (end stop) to hear.

Slide the print head to the rearmost position. You should back a click of the second micro switch hear.

For the micro switch there are corresponding screws, so that the end stops can be set correctly. Also, the metal plates can be bent carefully.

It is important that trigger the end stops in time, so that the left side wall eg can not be scratched from the fan plate. And of course, the machine must be able to determine the exact home position.

Markus

[somewhereinla 2]

I have had many problems when the machine arrived 3 weeks ago, but all have been resolved, that is until a couple of days ago when I starting having more problems with the feeder and the nozzle.... All of my problem have been fixed, the positive news it the machine is very easy to to fix and take appart if you are comfortable doing so... One thing I did notice as well is how many screws weren't tightened enough, borderline loose.

The good news is that all the prints so far have been really good and the UM2 has been pretty reliable.

The other good news is that I live in Pasadena, so if you have more problems you want help with, you can pm me and we can arrange to meet.

cheers.

 

[cgbobio 2]

Very kind of you somewhereinla! I have built a Rostock max printer from a kit so I know what is involved, I am just upset that a kit that came pre-assembled at a higher cost could have overlooked these things. At some point I think I just might go through the entire printer and locktite all the important set screws. I am currently printing a little 3" figure on the low quality setting in PLA and am really pleased with the output. I will post images when I can.

[illuminarti 18]

I wouldn't recommend putting loctite on the set screws. It simply isn't necessary. Once they are tightened, they tend to hold quite well, and you can in fact tighten the ones on the pulleys pretty hard without worrying about damaging anything. You also don't need to take anything apart to tighten the pulley screws - just rotate them around to the point where they are accessible from the inside of the printer, and then tighten them. I recommend using a good hex screwdriver like this one, to make it easier:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000T9XPQI

The knurled sleeve in the extruder has a smaller set screw and a much thinner threaded section, so that can be a bit harder to tighten properly without stripping the threads. But the rest are pretty strong.