Do everything Illuminarti says but be aware that the most likely failure is inside the nozzle - the wiring gets stressed the most there. But if you have a multimeter, you can keep the meter hooked up and while watching it push and prod the wiring in different places until the resistance jumps suddenly to an extreme (e.g. 1,000,000 ohms or more, or less than 10 ohms).
Here is an update. I have checked the temperature sensor and it is not reading anything but 0.L with the head in multiple positions. I was getting some readings, but then I discovered that it was me touching the leads of the multimeter with my fingers. Like gr5 instructed, I taped the lead to a header pushed into the sensor's plug and did all of my readings that way.
Anything else I should be checking?
Sounds like a broken connection somewhere on the leads then. You'll need to remove the sensor from the head and check that end - and most likely get a new one. Do you think you can remove and replace it yourself if supplied with the part, or do you need to return the printer to be fixed?
Where are you located?
I'm confident in my abilities to remove and replace the sensor. I don't have experience with the Ultimaker, but I also print with a Rostock Max which I built from the kit and have upgraded significantly.
My first idea was to remove the screws that hold the fans on. I got to that point, chickened out, and put the head back together again. I looked for build information online and found the open source files and looked through the assembly manual. Seems like it is a bit involved, but workable. I imagine that I will have to take the head of off the carriage, to disassemble it enough to be able to get to the set screw. I'll have a look at it now.
I guess I didn't fill out enough of my account information. I located in Southeastern Iowa.
Thanks for your help.
Steve
Well that was easier to remove that I thought. Amazing things can happen when you read the assembly manual! Anyway, I have the temperature sensor out of the heater block. It looks fine. No noticeable damage. I figure I should leave it in the braided cover until I receive a new part, so I can possibly use it as a snake. Any other thoughts?
The sooner you answer Illuminarti's question, the sooner you can get a new one shipped to you for free.
However if you want to do it the hard way...
Personally I would start by putting printer on it's side, remove larger cover (just 2 screws) and disconnect the temp connector underneath the UM - check that connector for loose wiring. Then measure the resistance there. The resistance should be roughly 100 ohms. A PT100 is 100 ohms at 25C but most homes are closer to 20C which is around 108 ohms.
It's possible the temp sensor and cabling is fine but something is wrong on the PCB.
If the resistance is too high (more than say 150 ohms) then a wire is broken somewhere in that assembly. I would then probably order a new one at support.ultimaker.com but answering Illuminarti's question *might* get you the part much faster. Like in one day instead of 2 weeks possibly. Do not ignore the great and powerful Illuminarti!
If you want the wire for snake purposes you can swap it out with some string.
All PT100 temp sensors have identical thermal/resistive characteristics and they come in many sizes and shapes. You *might* be able to find one at digikey.com but you can probably get one more easily and free by answering Illuminarti's question.
Mine gave the Temperature Sensor error while printing, and now it won't print - heats up and shows the temp in pronterface, but stops with the error in seconds when I start printing.
The issue is pretty obvious on inspection - the wire was hitting the motor behind it when in Home position, repeated flexing kinked and finally broke a wire at the brass block, and now it's intermittent.
I've opened a trouble ticket, but I'm wondering how soon can I expect a response and a replacement (I've got product orders waiting on this machine)?
Does UM have any US support or parts stock in the US yet?
See my pm.
Terrific. I received my part from Ultimaker, swapped the broken hot end thermistor and bingo it works like a charm! I just wanted to give thanks for everyone for their help and insight!
All the best,
Steve
I, too, got a replacement thermistor and replaced the one with the broken wire. While in there, I cleaned out the nozzle with acetone and fab'ed a small deflector to improve the hot-end cool-side cooling by directing all of the fan output to the left extruder.
And it's printing like a new machine again - 50% faster, 10 degrees cooler, with zero skips so far.
Thanks for the help everyone.
@gr5: Hi, that’s true the PT100 temperature sensor is available with the digikey and the other suppliers and I am wondering how we can get the temperature sensor for free by just answering the llluminarti’s question.
http://www.7pcbmanufacturing.com/
wondering how we can get the temperature sensor for free by just answering the llluminarti’s question
I'm not telling, sorry. Is North York in the UK? or USA? I thought digikey was only usa but York sounds like england.
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illuminarti 18
Hi Steve. Sorry to hear that you're having problems.
Yes, it is mostly a problem that affects the bed, but if the error doesn't mention the bed, it's the hot end. Unfortunately, there's no way to know from the error message whether the issue was that the temperature was reading too high, or too low.
You might start by taking the large cover off the electronics under the printer, and checking if the cable is properly seated into the main board. It's the thin cables going into the TEMP1 socket.
If the attachment is ok, then you might try visually inspecting the temp sensor where it goes into the back of the nozzle block. Look for any signs of loose wires, or fraying.
If you have a multimeter, you could next try measuring the resistance across the temp sensor leads. With the power off, at room temperature, it should be around 108 Ohms. If you can get a good reading, then try moving the head around by hand, and measure in with it in different places. There may be a damaged lead that is causing incorrect readings as the cable is in certain positions.
There isn't currently a source of spares in the USA, but there have been rumors that UM plans to improve the support and spares situation on this side of the Atlantic before too long - but that doesn't really help you right now, I know.
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