I have the UM1 and I do the same. Even then, it seems to have difficulty starting the lines as if the tip is empty. Plus I keep burning myself on the hotend because it's well hot! ;-)
I have the UM1 and I do the same. Even then, it seems to have difficulty starting the lines as if the tip is empty. Plus I keep burning myself on the hotend because it's well hot! ;-)
One of the 3D printers we have in our company, a HP printer, has a small wire brush located at the back of the build plate. In the software settings you can program the nozzle to be dragged through the wire brush before the start of a print and also at any time during the print.
In the UM1 start gcode, change the line that pre-extrudes 3mm to extrude 6mm instead, and reduce the speed a bit (say F60).
Then add a G4 P2000 line after that to make it pause a moment. Then it's really easy to use needle-nosed tweezers to grab the extruded filament and move it out of the way. Finally, remember to use at least 3 passes of skirt around the print, to make sure that the filament is flowing nicely before the print proper starts.
Note: You wouldn't want to do what he does unless you have a glass bed. The plastic bed will get a divot in it if the hot end just sits around like that.
What who does?
I think he refers to the video in the OP link illuminarti, the hot end resting on the build plate for a while.
Yes, I have a glass bed.
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jameshs 42
Which UM do you have?
On the UM1 I always wipe the hot nozzle and then spin the extruder wheel to purge the nozzle until it hits temperature when I whip away the extrudate before it homes into it
Not sure you can do this on a UM2
James
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