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Cgbobio's Build thread


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Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

Just a few images from my album of stuff I have printed with my new Ultimaker 2!

These were all printed with the roll of PLA that shipped with my printer from the factory. I use a temp of 210C for the head and 60C for the bed. Glue stick works great for me at holding the models to the build platform, but I have stated using brimm on the smaller footprint models for better adhesion. Have been trying different print resolutions and speeds to see what effects I can get as well.

I modeled the Cylon head in 3Dstudio max and used Zbrush to perfect the mesh. The piano and robot were downloaded, the rest were modeled by a friend and printed by me.

UM2 robot

PLA Skull

Grand Piano

The Final print

Littleguy

 

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Some really nice looking prints! Well done!

     

    Thanks! Here are some shot from today's print of a 100mm head with no infill... call me crazy, I just wanted to see if it would hold up or not!

    100mm Cylon Head Build 01

    100mm Cylon Head Build 02

    100mm Cylon Head Build 03

    Cylon side By side

     

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    • 2 weeks later...
    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Been busy printing the Venus De Milo at 19" in PLA! Took me around 3 days of printing, but I didn't print while I was sleeping. Also scanned my face with a Next Engine 3D scanner and printed a small head. Eventually planning on making myself into a bobblehead.

     

    Venus De Milo 19"

    Venus De Milo

    Head shoulders and torso

    3D print of my face

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    How do you fill the seams where you have glued the parts?

    After the primer the seams are gone. Is this only by the primer or do you have used some filler before?

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    How do you fill the seams where you have glued the parts?

    After the primer the seams are gone. Is this only by the primer or do you have used some filler before?

     

    I use an epoxy putty called Propoxy20. It comes in a grey tube and you slice off small pieces then knead them together to activate the epoxy. You have to work fast and press the putty into the seams with a putty knife... fill the seams, but try and get as much off as you can, otherwise you'll be sanding it forever when it dries. The primer helps to show where you missed and gives a nice base coat for the paint. I feather it out onto the statue about 3-5mm to either side of the seam so I can blend it better.

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Munchkinomicon book

    Shoulder Dragon

    Mask printing

    Mask on Minifig

    Rat On A stick

    Axe

    Minifig with accessories

    DW Snaredrum

    Some recent prints I've done in PLA for my friend's Kickstarter campaign. He creates custom Lego accessories for minifigs and sells them at Lego conventions and online. These prints are for showing at the Lego convention in Chicago next month. The Snare drum is something I am doing for myself. I am attempting to re-create my entire DW drumset in miniature so I can create myself as a Bobblehead playing them! Will post pics as I do more.

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Great looking prints cgbob.

    Im so sorry. I realise i posted my latest print in your thread instead of the general thread. I have deleted it.

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    No worries Skint, it didn't bother me one bit! Those were some nice looking prints, were they PLA or ABS?

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Faberdashery PLA. Robot Silver. It printed really nicely

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Some more shots of the prints in PLA for my friend at Crazybricks.com that he used to promote his Kickstarter campaign.

    Munchkinomicon - another angle

    Munchkinomicon

    Cura setup

    Crazybricks.com kickstarter campaign

    Finished Half an Axe

    Rat on A Stick

    Plate Full of Items

    Mini-fig Hand Bushings

    Shoulder Dragon

     

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    5a331a68ba601_LandRoverLock.thumb.jpg.2f3a3c970d6c2efbf4193f57f9db1bf8.jpg

    I modeled this replacement part for a friend's Land Rover door lock mechanism. When the original part broke, the alarm system disabled the ignition and the car would not start. Research found that the part was not available by itself, my friend would have had to buy the entire door lock mechanism for over $200 US! Thank goodness for my Ultimaker 2, about an hour of my time and he was back on the road!

     

    5a331a68ba601_LandRoverLock.thumb.jpg.2f3a3c970d6c2efbf4193f57f9db1bf8.jpg

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Have you also documented how the replacement / mount in the Land Rover went?

    I thought that is what I was going to watch following your youtube link ;)

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    Posted · Cgbobio's Build thread

    Have you also documented how the replacement / mount in the Land Rover went?

    I thought that is what I was going to watch following your youtube link ;)

     

    Sorry about that, I printed out about 5 copies of the part and my friend took them to his mechanic. It was a day or so before I got a phone call back that they worked on the 1st try. I did use the original broken part (the black one in the photo) to take measurements to model a replacement, but beyond the modeling and printing of the part, I was not involved in the install.

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