Thanks for the link, that's a great example of the type of creative thinking needed to get around some of the limitations of these machines.
Has anyone here come up with a heated bed for their Ultimaker to get around this?
Thanks for the link, that's a great example of the type of creative thinking needed to get around some of the limitations of these machines.
Has anyone here come up with a heated bed for their Ultimaker to get around this?
I've got a reprap bed, I have to manually handle the heat as it's on a different power supply. But it fits fine.
-b
Cyclone, does it solve the warping problem?
This was also posted on hackaday:
http://hackaday.com/2011/11/15/a-techni ... 3d-prints/
From the comments:
I really like the "pop off by itself" part. Because I still have removing issues from the blue tape.A combination of using PLA and a heated glass bed has eliminated warping entirely for my RepRap. No matter how large the print is, nothing warps, not even the corners. PLA on hot glass is magical like that. At 70C, PLA will stick to hot glass well enough that you’ll need a hammer to knock it off, but as soon as it cools to 40C, the piece will pop off by itself.
Exactly as Daid said, no curling and the parts come right off after it cools to 40-50C.
ABS doesn't want to stick to the glass at all but PLA and ABS can be made to be happy
together on a heated Kapton covered bed.
-b
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owen 19
Thanks for that Joergen, I've been getting a bit of warping just with PLA!
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