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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I'm still on the old but trusty 14.09, I thought I'd install the new beta to see how things are going. But the versions seem to be hard to follow. 15.10 (v1.99?) 4 months later and there is a new RC for 15.04 but nothing for the new system. Has the major rewrite been scrapped?
  2. The original UM used a 12v 50mm fan. If the UMO uses a different fan it should have a sticker on it that says what voltage it is, and the edge measurement of the fan should be close to 50mm or 40mm for a fan of those sizes. The measurement is actually the screw hole center to center measurement. The UM2 uses 40mm fans I believe.
  3. I actually came to post a similar comment/question. I made a quick little plugin I could activate and it would switch the T0 to T1 so I could print using the secondary extruder. But the removal of it breaks the plugin. Why wouldn't the slicing engine always output the Tool number? What is the reasoning behind the change? I also notice that it forces the bed heatup with set and wait (M190) before setting the temps on the extruders. I suppose there isn't a nice way to set these behaviors to what I prefer?
  4. Makerbots and variants based on the Sailfish firmwares all consume X3G (a newer version of S3G) You can use Cura to generate GCODE but you must them post process it with either ReplicatorG, Makerware, or GPX to create an X3G file. GPX is a tool made to take Gcode and post process it for Makerbot style printers: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:81425 I had it working as a post process script with Cura but I haven't done much with my makerbot in some time so I don't have the setup handy anymore.
  5. I'm looking at this model as well. It seems they forgot to include the models with supports built in. If you ask the 3dhubs support tech they can provide it to you. As to why Cura is failing to support this. Looks like Cura only checks the angle of a surface and not whether it has a part of an arc without a leg leading up to it. If you look at the Cura layers you can see that it puts supports only where the angle is 60 degrees, and not where it is <60 degrees but is a totally unsupported feature. This is definitely a worst case scenario but it is one that Cura should be able to generate s
  6. 328 is really high. Is the UM able to handle that much heat?
  7. It is a huge cube. I once printed a model that size, but totally hollow, no infill only 2 perimeters (.8mm walls) and 80mm print speed and it took 24 hours. So with infill, those very thick walls (1.2mm), and 50mm is kind of a slow print speed for an UM. Yes, it is probably spot on. You could speed it up slightly by reducing the wall thickness to .8mm. Increase print speed, increase infill speed higher. You could try pushing the layer height to upper .2's or low .3's with possibly a higher than usual temp to compensate for the larger amount of plastic. Forcing the printer to run faster is t
  8. The first dual print posted from UM, the Robot in the Crystal print, made it appear that you could take two solid models and dual print merge them and cura would print them overlapping but separate colors. It appears that two solid models results in the overlap being printed in both colors. Is this intended? I would expect that Cura would delete the overlapping gcode from one of the colors so there isn't a problem extruding plastic were other (color) plastic has been lain. Is this how it does, in fact, work? Is there a way to have Cura pick one or the other color and discard the overlapp
  9. Did you name your file auto0.g ? (Or some other auto#.g where # is a number from 0-9) The "auto#.g" are autostart filenames.
  10. I've been printing with 3d Printers for a few years now and .06mm is a very low layer height. I print around there to show off a gorgeous model like the Yoda. It's kind of a waste of printer time to print that thin for a phone case. The first layer at the height is very tricky. As illuminarti says set the first layer height to .2 or at least .15.
  11. I have used both Rit powder based and pre-made liquid based. I also have used the food coloring liquid dye most grocery stores have. Use dye and cup or two of water. Some people say adding vinegar helps. My best results came from gently heating the dye. I put the dye jars in a pot with water and heated the pot on the stove until the water in the pot was hot but not boiling. Leave the model in the dye longer to darken. Only works on Nylon for me. If you add a little acetone you can "dye" ABS. Heat not needed.
  12. I've looked through the docs on the site and poked through the github a bit and can't find a list. Are there other keywords not used in the default start/end gcode?
  13. I'm surprised you aren't interested in taking more donations for the printable files. I'd pay.
  14. There are a few sellers for conductive filament. The biggest drawback of course is that it is extremely high resistance. Most have strange printing qualities that would make it difficult to use in concert with existing plastics, much lower melting temp, higher extrusion pressure that sort of thing. Then of course you really would want to use this with dual printheads and that is still a very young technology.
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