Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
Sign in to follow this  
kitwashere

"Autolift" Kickstarter campaign

Recommended Posts

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/dglass3d/autolift-precision-3d-printer-hot-ends

Just came across this campaign today. Any thoughts on it? I don't see how lifting the head a little helps with retraction/oozing but they are saying it's all the difference.

If they are correct, and their mechanical "cool head lift" is great, this could probably be implemented by just giving your hot end mount a little slop in the Z axis and have the extruder motor push it around?

Edit: Here's a video

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I think you would mostly see the benefits of this with dual extrution.

What is a little bit? I'll have to give that option a try after my next print finishes, although I don't really have too much of a problem with retraction now.

Maybe there is a little truth to that campaign. Although $120 is pretty steep, and that's the "early bird" price.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah i use a dual extruder.

Im going with 0.2mm. Before i activated that feature i got sometimes little blobs at the retraction point. Rarly i also got strings. But now with the z hop they dissapered.

Yep $120 isn't cheap. I dont even now if it fits the ultimaker head.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't this how the lastest makerbot works? The filament pushes the head down. On retraction the force drops and it moves back upwards. See this gif here: http://intentional3d.com/teardown-of-the-makerbot-5th-gen-replicator-smart-extruder/

It introduces a bit of sloppiness though (at least on the MKI head), may be this one is better.

I definitely see it as a benefit for dual head setups, but it may be worth just for retraction (much faster than a Z-hop!)

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Isn't this how the lastest makerbot works? The filament pushes the head down. On retraction the force drops and it moves back upwards. See this gif here: http://intentional3d.com/teardown-of-the-makerbot-5th-gen-replicator-smart-extruder/

It introduces a bit of sloppiness though (at least on the MKI head), may be this one is better.

I definitely see it as a benefit for dual head setups, but it may be worth just for retraction (much faster than a Z-hop!)

 

Thank you for this link - very interesting how makerbot managed the filament check and "standing filament because of grinding or glogged nozzl" issue-check.

Might be possible hacks for a UM1 too - is´nt?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank you for this link - very interesting how makerbot managed the filament check and "standing filament because of grinding or glogged nozzl" issue-check.

Might be possible hacks for a UM1 too - is´nt?

 

Oh don't ask me -- I am certainly not the one to say it cannot be hacked for the UM1 !

Now you get my head running again and I have work to do :D

I need to add "dual head with autoraise" to my wishlist http://www.tridimake.com/2014/01/features-and-improvements-for-a-homemade-ultimaker.html

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hmm, if a few people are doing this then it probably does work.

I still suck at modeling things but I'm going to have a shot at making a mount for the UBIS hot end and see if this can be realized in just the mount. A spring might help with lifting the hot end up, just in case someone lives in a perfect world with no friction in their bowden, and maybe if I can't control the "slop" a metal tube of some sort the whole unit can slide in.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Really nice it is going to get when there is a pin inside the nozzle to close the opening when retracted. no oozing or anything else

 

This. IMO, retraction only works for a little while if the block is kept heated. Eventually some melt will ooze from the undesired tip. Another solution that comes to mind is to direct cooling (eg. fan airflow) to undesired tip to form a small plug, then allow time for that tip to reheat when it's called for. It might be tough to calibrate.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A needle valve would help a lot but it would be a pretty complex set up I think and would add some sort of motor or solenoid or something to the mix per nozzle it's used on. Maybe with some type of four way valve you could get away with one, but then you are mixing material.

I do like the KS author's idea of using 1 Stepper motor to drive 2 filaments. Not the best implementation on their part but a cool idea. Maybe a solenoid could be used to pivot the motor into one of the filaments on either side of it? Would need a decent strength solenoid or at least a locking mechanism though. Simpler and more complicated at the same time than 2 stepper motors.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was curious if and how an autolift will work and made custom PEEK and aluminum parts for my Merlin hotend. Seems to work quite well. The Voronoi Yoda test print is running right now.

My intention is to find out if I can eliminate the annoying issue of knocking down small (support) pillars with raised edges when traveling across.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Print turned out pretty good, especially when taken into account that it's quite small (I scaled it down to 70%).

There is no slop so far. But since it's a simple PEEK / Aluminum bush bearing, I'm not sure if it will last forever.

The best thing is, that small structures are entered from above and left upwards. So there is no possibility for the nozzle tip to catch a raised edge or something else which unintentionally sticks out above the last layer.

In fact these collisions not only knock down or distort down small parts sometimes but they also can displace the (at least my UM original) print bed by a few tenths of a mm.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hadn't really considered that this is a better "angle of attack". Another nice feature of this simple mod.

By the way, how simple is your set up? Did you add in a spring like the Kickstarter guys, or is just kind of a floating tube in a tube? Wonder how long the peek will hold up.

Would you say the print is better than what you'd get without this "autolift"?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!