Stuck in "Heating Up..." Mode

[sensebellum 2]

I have been using my UM2 today and after I printed the last object it will no longer go past the "Heating Up..." mode as shown in the picture.

I looked into the setting and the nozzle is not heating up on its own. I used to be able to fix this by manually setting it and the wheels got turning.

However, I tried many things - wipe SD card, turn off machine, different models, different slicers, factory reset - and the result is the same. Note, that the calibration methods and test extrusion worked after factory reset during the "initial out of box calibration". Yet, once past that, still stuck in this mode...

How else should I go about troubleshooting?

 

[sensebellum 2]

After much tinkering last night I found no solution (sometimes waiting 30+ minutes to see if it was truly "warming up").

This morning, I woke up to a working UM2.

A happy resolution.

 

[gr5 2,269]

My printer may have the same issue.

The symptom is that sometimes the heaters work and sometimes (after a power cycle) they stop working. Especially if the machine has been on for a long time (more than 20 minutes) and I power cycle it, the 19V won't come on so that means the heaters and steppers won't work. You can verify this by going to maintenance -> advanced and moving the bed up or down. If that is broken as well then we have the same fault.

The problem for me was K1. K1 isn't needed and one of the designers of the board at UM actually told me I can bypass it so I did. But one fix was to turn off the machine for 30 minutes and then it worked. Another fix was to firmly tap the bottom cover under the board or remove the larger cover and tap the board direclty. When I do that I can hear K1 click on quietly.

It got so that I could predict if 19V was going to come on by the sound the machine makes when you turn on power. There is a very rapid "click click" when you power on the machine. The first click is the actual power switch and the second click is K1.

So I'm guessing you have the same issue. Let us know what you find. If you want to make it fail on purpose, simply turn on the printer, walk away for 30 minutes, then come back turn it off for just a few seconds and turn it back on. The heaters and servos should now be not working.

 

[sensebellum 2]

To recap, the fix was as follows:

The bed was not heating up, although the extruder nozzle was. I checked the connections underneath the printer on the microcontroller - all good.

Next, I checked the wires leading to the buildplate. I found a faulty solder to the heating element. This was because some plastic had gotten in there and a heating/cooling cycle ensued. Similar to how ice cracks open rocks this led to a break in the solder connection.

Remember to keep your printer clean! Special thanks to the Ultimaker team for helping me out with this one!

 

[ulitin 0]

on my ultimaker 3, i had to reconnect some heatbed wires, reinforced the connectors on both sides and everything works

[jgehrer 1]

I am having the same issue, the machine gets stuck "heating up" phase once a design is loaded.  I unplugged the machine and waited an hour, still same issue.  

Any suggestions on a fix would be great.

 

Thanks

[gr5 2,269]

It looks like you are talking about an Ultimaker 2.  You probably have the same issue.  One of the heaters isn't working anymore.  Try going through the menus and heat up just the nozzle.  It should start increasing in temperature rapidly within 5 seconds.  If that seems to be working then try the bed.  That takes more like 20 seconds to go up 1 or 2 degrees.

 

So step 1 is to figure out if it's the bed, the nozzle, or some weird software state.

 

If it's a weird software state you can try doing a "factory reset".  Be warned you will have to relevel the bed after.

 

[jgehrer 1]

gr5 Thanks for the troubleshooting!  It turns out the bed is not heating.  What is the next step?

 

[jgehrer 1]

And yes, it is  2 Extended +

[gr5 2,269]

Well it's usually the wiring at the bed.  But it could also be underneath the printer where the cabling attaches to the PCB.

 

Do you have a friend with a multimeter and knows how to use it?  You should invite such a person over for dinner and debugging.  This kind of thing takes 10 minutes to isolate.

 

If you don't then assume it's the connector at the bed.  Take the bed apart by removing the 3 leveling screws.  Keep careful notes about how it goes back together.  There is a hidden washer underneath in the grease so examine it carefully as you take it apart.

 

Sometimes you can just remove the cabling and put it back in.  The heater is the larger 2 cables.  Usually you have to reflow the solder where the connector connects to the heated bed.

 

Similarly at the other end, sometimes you just have to remove the cables, possibly clean them if they are covered in black carbon, and then put them back in.

 

If you have a volt meter you can test how far the 24V travels - does it make it out to the connector but not to the heated bed?

 

You could also disconnect the heated bed and make sure the resistance is correct.  Somewhere around 4 ohms I think?  If it's over 10 ohms then something is wrong.  I doubt the bed itself is broken but if you bent it severely it could break one of the traces.

[jgehrer 1]

Upon further investigation, one of the cables that connects to the bed is severed!  I assume I can just strip the wire and reconnect?

[gr5 2,269]

Yes.  Make sure to heat shrink insulation or some other way to insulate it.  If it shorts out it could destroy the FET on the PCB that switches the heat on and off.

[jgehrer 1]

Got it!  It is back in business!

Thanks again!