If you look carefully you can see sh prints the key with the part you normall hold down and the shaft pointing upwards. Plus she has a support column going all the way up to the top to support the locking portion of the key.
First of all - you have "raised edges" which are common on overhangs. Just above the hexagon key grip you have two sections that come together at a steep overhang. Once these connect the printer slowly recovers but until thin you get raised edges that the printer can hit. Hard! The solution is to have the part stick to the glass. Hard!
So I recommend you:
1) clean your glass well. It probably has some oils from your fingers.
2) Use PVA glue - the glue stick that comes with the UM2 is pretty good. You can smear that out with some water and paper towels maybe and let it try. Or what I do: mix normal Elmer's wood glue with 10 parts water. Shake it up in a jar and paint on the glass with a paint brush. Heat up the glass until it dries out and becomes invisible.
3) Use brim (you did already of course).
4) Fans at 100%. Fans are very important for overhangs. The more fan the better. Add extra fans. Also maybe lower your printing temp for these overhangs. What temp are you printing at? Maybe go down another 10C?
5) You can push down on the lifting edges *while it prints* if you want. I use a putty knife. You have to be quick.
Once the print gets to the shaft of the key I think you are safe.
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yellowshark 153
Hi Mariem, could you answer a couple of questions please.
1. Extruder temp., print speed, layer depth, fan setting.
2. The 2nd picture suggests you are printing 3 copies simultaneously, were the previous attempts printed with 3 copies also?
3. Being curious, do you print the key element separately and then stick it to the shaft?
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