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sensebellum

Flexible Build Plate

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

Has anyone heard of a flexible build plate before?

These look awesome and I am wondering about size and the possibility of finding one that fits a regular UM2?

https://www.adafruit.com/products/2233

This seems like it would be a really great way to get things off the plate without jarring, forcing, or otherwise forcefully removing it.

 

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

They sell a 300mm x 300mm version that you can cut to size (it's really expensive tough).

I think i remember someone using it (or selling one) for the UM2.

Side note: just let the buildplate cool down enough and you'll stop struggling to get your prints off ;)

 

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

I will check into that. As long as it sticks just as well it might be worth a shot. This could really increase my time between prints and keeping it running hot so as not to cool down.

 

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

I spoke to the guy who develops it, very nice guy.

I had the chance to try it out once, and I had pretty decent results.

It does require some tweaking to get the bed leveled tho.

You don't need glue, but if for example your bed is too close, you will have a hard time getting it loose and may even damage the surface of the bed. Depending on what material you use you may want to change the bed level a bit for a different level of adhesion.

A concern I had, if you flex the bed to get a print loose.. how can you be sure it will move back in its original form and be perfectly flat?

 

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

Interesting, I am going to be using 95% PLA types on here.

I was thinking it would stay moderately flat, especially if heated on a level surface - maybe not.

Think you can just replace the glass with this material?

 

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Posted · Flexible Build Plate

Side note: just let the buildplate cool down enough and you'll stop struggling to get your prints off ;)

 

Just what I was going to say, along with: keep a sharp, good quality 40mm (1.5") wood chisel beside the printer. Run it along the glass bed, bevel side up, and it pings the print off with very little force.

I assume that air pressure is a large part of what keeps the print stuck down after it has cooled, so once you get the chisel edge in there it gives up almost instantly.

 

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