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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. I had to work on other things for a few months, but when I started visiting again recently I was pleased to see that the new forum is greatly improved. Information density is, in most places, back up to where it needed to be to be useful. Except in one place that I've found: when viewing my own posts, e.g. when trying to find an old conversation when I can't remember the exact forum section or topic title. I go to my profile and view my "list" of posts... and it's still using one huge tile per post. It's really rather ridiculous that I have this huge 26"/65cm widescreen monitor, but I can onl
  2. ISTM it's just the pigment that has been bleached out or oxidised. You could probably wash most of that off. The last set of pics is looking more like what I got a year ago... I described this bleaching earlier in the thread. I have to admit I'm hard pressed to see any improvement in "quality" in these latest pictures. The surface roughness has not really changed IMHO, e.g. the layer lines seem just as prominent. What am I supposed to be seeing?
  3. I'm also talking 100% acetone bought in a 2.5L bottle from eBay. I use it in my workshop, and I don't wear nail varnish! In truth I can't quite be certain of what my test was (it was a quick test done about 14 months ago), but what I think I did was dunk a small failed print in a glass of acetone to see the effect. The quickest visible effect was that the pigment was bleached, and after 30 minutes or so I removed it. It's possible that the PLA itself would start to go if I left it in there longer, but I'm not sure that would be a useful result.
  4. This topic puzzles me. When I tried soaking UM Blue PLA in acetone the PLA wasn't touched at all. All that happened was that the blue pigment turned white. That was a year ago, before I learned that the YouTube vids only applied to ABS.
  5. Sorry guys, but I'm pretty sure that the tool you're hoping for isn't really practical - in my opinion. STL is the compiled/rendered form of the 3D model, similar to how object code is the compiled form of a source code, or a paperback is the rendered form of a novel. Going from STL back to a fully operational 3D model is a bit like trying to scan a book and reproduce the original word processor document. It may seem like it worked but in fact it's just a static image, you can't do much with it except render it again, perhaps at a different scale. Going from STL to a working model in any in
  6. I did say "usually" and "not ... complex". At best the object will lose all identity, it will just come back as a set of polygons. And, the shape can't have any attributes that STL doesn't know about. Depending on the precise format used there may also be precision problems introduced by using ASCII or single precision STL.
  7. Not in the sense you probably mean. Some 3D design software allows you to import STL, but it will usually be imported as a locked shape, not something you can do complex edits on - scaling is the most you could expect. Basically, the conversion from model to STL is one way.
  8. "Uploading"? Do you mean that it won't load? Is there are error message? Can you make the STL available for download from somewhere? Perhaps one of us could tell you what's wrong with it.
  9. Actually, it's very possible to create an STL from almost anything - there's nothing in STL that enforces watertight models, it's just a list of unrelated 3D polygons - hence the market for STL repair tools. It's the model that has to be watertight, not the output format. And obviously, it's easier to create watertight models if the modelling software is designed to do that.
  10. Please note that CAD tools are not necessarily best for 3D printing. You need something designed for solid modelling, that enforces rules for solid, watertight shapes.
  11. I was on a tablet yesterday which is why I didn't post a direct link (copy and paste is hard). Here it is now :- http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/7338-ultimaker-2-collet-locks/
  12. Use the Atomic method to clean out the nozzle (see online visual guide). Also, if you look back in my post history you should find where I posted an OpenSCAD script for an exact copy of the UM2 bowden clip. You do need it - you don't want the bowden tube moving. Edit: ah, problem solved while I was composing. The blockage was a bit more basic than I had in mind, but well done for finding the problem.
  13. This could be nothing to worry about. Sometimes the filament gets snagged on the entrance to the Teflon spacer and won't go all the way in. Then of course the motor can push as hard as it likes but the plastic isn't melted, and it ain't goin nowhere. I try to put a point on my filament rather than square cut it. If that's not the whole story then tweaking the temperature up by 10C might help too.
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