Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts
lance-greene

trouble printing bridge nylon

Recommended Posts

trying to print some bridge here, im using green painters tape on the bed and i have the heated bed running at 90 degrees but the part still lifts and pulls the tape off the table. is the high temperature causing the glue on the tape to weaken making it easier to lift it off? ive tried just using glue with the heated bed but it still pulls, would enclosing the printer help it more?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I've only printed about 10 parts in Taulman Bridge - it's just too flexible for most of my needs. Maybe 20 parts.

Anyway - my notes say on Ultimkaer 2, clean the glass, then apply some elmers wood glue mixed with about 10 parts water to 1 part wood glue (it's not exact). Shake in a jar and apply to the bed with paint brush.

Print nozzle temp 240C, bed temp 70C. Use lots of brim. It should stay down. Also fan at 30% max and 30% min.

You will definitely get better results if you cover the top with a box and the front with plastic but I didn't bother.

I printed quite a few things with this method - nothing longer than 120mm but this method kept the parts from lifting off the bed. In fact I have a note that said I needed 12 pounds of force to get a small 10mm by 10mm cube off the bed (used a screwdriver against a scale to see how much pressure was needed).

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I printed some very large parts in Bridge with excellent results. The part is roughly 175 mm by 120 mm, and about 100 mm tall. I've printed it twice, and each run took almost 24 hours, and produced a better quality outcome than any other filament I've tried.

The key was the mixture of PVA glue and water spread on the glass with a paint brush. I'm using LePage brand white glue, and my ratio of glue to water is higher than than 10:1--maybe as much as 3:1 or 5:1.

As the bed heats, the diluted glue dries into a uniform film, and the brim sticks so well that I have to soak the glass and part in water and carefully progressively peel it off the glass with a utility knife.

You can see the part and the film of dried diluted glue on the glass in this photo.

printed-handle-1.thumb.jpg.1fdcbcd7e3d3d75de48e7e4c9fe83f7c.jpg

printed-handle-1.thumb.jpg.1fdcbcd7e3d3d75de48e7e4c9fe83f7c.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Our picks

    • Taking Advantage of DfAM
      This is a statement that’s often made about AM/3DP. I'll focus on the way DfAM can take advantage of some of the unique capabilities that AM and 3DP have to offer. I personally think that the use of AM/3DP for light-weighting is one of it’s most exciting possibilities and one that could play a key part in the sustainability of design and manufacturing in the future.
        • Like
      • 3 replies
×

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!