Let's talk about 12 screws...

[visu-al 2]

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fanduct-visnis1

Published as it seems to work like that.

happy about feedback

 

[fabi580 0]

@

[visu-al 2]

@ fabi580

wow i never heard about that, just readed some information i would love to have such a tool, what do you use ?

you can download the stl from youmagine from my link i just posted

but knowing i or someone else could simulate the airflow and heat i can try to figure out a good way to make perfect overhangs from all sides if it's possible..

 

[fabi580 0]

I use Autodesk Simulation CFD 2015 witch is not an fee tool (in fact its quite expensive)and an stl is Possible to use but quite complikated because I can't integrate it in my Inventor CAD File (to delete support an so on ...maybe just because I haven't found the right tool jet) so I would really like to get an not mesh file like an .step or wotever.

witch CAD do you use?

 

[visu-al 2]

ok but then i cannot serve you in this case i just got the stl file from here to make the changes in blender and there it's still a mesh and i export also to stl.

but i will keep it in mind to be able to deliver such a file if i create a new fanduct

 

[mnis 11]

hello everybody

There are a few small news:

+ The integrated support material has been revised, but also still required automatically generated support material.

+ The General structure has been improved.

+ The Snap feature for the fan has been revised.

+ New (smaller) model variants CPv9 ( B) published, with more cooling for objects and less cooling for the print head ...

So it is written on YouMagine:

• Since today 02.23.2015 revised versions are available on YouMagine.

Now there are fan-cages for the original version Ultimaker 2 CPv9( A ) and also for the Ultimaker 2 version with the ~ 11mm shorter print head CPv9 ( B ). The downloadable files are marked accordingly. The original Ultimaker 2 version can be equipped with the variants ( A ) and ( B ), but the Ultimaker 2 with the shorter printhead needs the variant ( B ). Variant ( B ) I have not personally tested. Please give me feedback if something does not fit and do not forget about the most current information in the corresponding forum thread.

What would interest me about UM2 printhead also:

If the Ultimaker 2 with the shorter print head actually on the Z-axis 11mm more height for objects available? May have before making changes manually in the Cura-machine setting so that the additional space can be used, or not? Cura can not automatically detect this, I think ...

As it is with the all-new Ultimaker machines? Apparently they have similar or even identical printheads, or not?

Best Regards

Markus

 

[meduza 191]

Yes, the UM2 with the shorter head does actually have 11mm more Z-axis space if you change it in Machine settings in Cura, Daid has confirmed this in another thread here.

 

[mnis 11]

Small addition:

+ The fan cages are not made of metal and much more sensitive than the originals. That is why it is a good idea to print each variant more than once to get a spare part is in stock.

+ Smaller drooping deformations near the hottest zones can be easily corrected with a nail file.

+ Before printing of very large objects, you need to check if risk of collision with the glass bed retaining clips. The perforated insulator bolt at the ColdEnd (Teflon-piece), allows you to slightly adjust the Z position of the Hotend. Then be sure to realign the print bed.

+ Try printing with minimal fan speed of perhaps 15 to 25 percent already during the first layer, so that the fan cages continuously receive cooling, and can not be distorted too much. You can call at any time the Tuning menu directly on the machine to regulate the fan power: "Set fan speed".

Mounting examples:

Markus

 

[fabi580 0]

I looked a bit at my Ultimaker and fond a way to mount a third and forth Fan onto the printhead which would compete the Idea, because it is able to cool the plastik more directly coming out the nozzle... its not tested and in ulta alpha stage but wanted to show it for discussion.

Athow it looks like it would coiled my CAD suggests that unless you have an Front door it will work.

 

[fabi580 0]

or combine the twin tornado idea with what Kevin Lee is doing ... that would look like this:

It has the advantage that more air is cooling the print... and more directly... so overhangs might get better.

 

[mnis 11]

Unfortunately, your pictures are not available... :wacko:

For me, the whole thing looks a little bit overdressed, but certainly interesting. The front of the print head offers the only possibility of optional components. At this point you have to do almost not worry about a possible collision...

Regarding this fact, I already thought about installing something like a little "wifi camera", and or object illumination. Hehe, it stimulates my imagination very much, as there are probably a few more sleepless nights, fabi580 Thank you... :lol:

:idea: But I think CPv9 uses the power of the existing fans already very efficient. The original design may be pretty to look at, but in terms of performance, it is certainly extremely well at the lowest level...

CPv9 is certainly not perfect. I think that would be a perfect cooling around the nozzle opening, with perhaps ~5mm distance, but then it must be a metal construction in any case...

Markus

 

[fabi580 0]

https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-fan I just publish it on Youmagin so you might be able to look at the design there

 

[visu-al 2]

@mnis your shorter version works well.

..but i always had to drill out the holes where the m3's from the printhead should fit. what size should they be?

 

[mnis 11]

@VISU-AL...Big thanks for your feedback and Support :-)

The diameter is 3.1mm in the drawing. But dimensional accuracy is always dependent on the material, temperature, speed, slicer, etc. I think there will always be replicas that differ slightly from the original.

If you turn the long screw a few mm deep into, then should they can pull out without re-turning. Or if you a few times turn the screw into it, then it should very quickly smoother until they can be pushed through.

Do you think I should increase the Diameter?

Markus

 

[visu-al 2]

@mnis Thank YOU for this design i'm using now.

Ok then my two UM2's always print to thick not only on the bottom layer i needed to drill to at least 3.1 until i could insert the long screws without to much resistance..

I would make it wider so that it may stuck a bit on a small"elephants foot" so most people don't have to drill

 

[mnis 11]

And now a small interim report in images, for all the doubters, skeptics, whiners, cowards, pessimists, doomsayers, naysayers, disbelievers, etc.

Layer = 0.1mm / Speed = 40mm/s

:mrgreen: Sorry, sarcasm is a free service from me ...

Markus

 

[mnis 11]

• Since today 03.17.2015 revised versions are now available only on ThingiVerse (But later available on YouMagine).

• Now there are fan-cages for the original version Ultimaker 2 CPv9( A ) and also for the newer version Ultimaker 2 with the ~ 11mm shorter print head (CPv9( B ) and CPv9( C )). The downloadable files are marked accordingly.

• The original Ultimaker 2 version can be equipped with the variants ( A ), ( B ) and ( C ), but the Ultimaker 2 with the shorter printhead needs the variant ( B ) or ( C ). Variant ( B ) and ( C ) I have not personally tested.

• Variant ( C ) is closer to the original design ( A ). The air ducts are again 50/50, for a possibly better object-cooling / print- head cooling. Please test and compare the variants ( B ) and ( C ) and give me feedback. I currently have not the time for intensive testing. I use a very long time variant ( A ) and there is so far no problems to report.

• Please give me feedback if something does not fit.

Markus (mnis)