owen
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Posts posted by owen
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Or you could give it 10% fill
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Kapton is harder to stick to then blue tape but gives a smoother finish. It sticks much better than glass though.
Another setting I forgot is, to go for a thick first layer as well. 0.3mm in Cura.
What you are trying to do is get a seal around the edge. Once that seal goes and air gets underneath that part of the model cools and shrivels and goes worse then if you didn't have a HBP. The lifted edge gets bigger then.
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Hi thereza
Use the Kapton tape
Make sure you are level and the right distance at the start
Print slow first layer
Use the Brim
If still having problems slow down you fan
All doable from Cura
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Hi Ascanio
I'm pretty sure I have that same PCB and it draws many more amps than that at 12V. At 24V you will double the current and it will be 4 X the power. Also at start up when the PCB is cold it has a lower resistance and draws more current. I have a 360W variable power supply which goes up to 24V, I turn it down all the way and it puts out about 13V. At this voltage it draws a lot of power and even more when the power supply's own fan kicks in.
I have a relay with a 12V coil that has never given a problem but I also think most 24V relays would probably operate at 19V.
The important thing for safety and reliability is to have the current rating of the power circuit to be ample. I suggest 40 amp rating for the relay switching contacts and thick flexible wires. I also suggest the 360W power supply at 12V. Mine uses up more power than it's rating for short periods but has handled it for many months OK. I wouldn't go for a lower power rating than this or higher voltage.
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Hi
Need to make sure your bed is level and the right distance at start.
Usual setting are a thicker slower first layer. Brim on, fan off.
If your still not sticking onto Kapton tape I would verify the actual temperature of your HBP
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Yaay. Well done.
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Looks like you are not getting as many items in your list as me 12much. Either you need to ask someone who runs this forum or maybe you just need to wait till you have a certain number of posts up.
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On the top right next to your user name click on the arrow and then click on 'My Settings'
On the left blue column half way down click on 'Signature'
Enter your signature and Click on 'Save Changes'
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I remember when I inserted the vertical axes but not yet the z-screw, the table was going all the way down without any problems. :smile:
In that case it sounds like there is something on the screw that is stopping it going through the nut at that height.
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Hi znib
The height at which it stops looks like possibly the wood at the bottom of the z stage is hitting the top of the coupler where the coupler should go up inside that part.
Not sure why it would be hitting it as nothing looks out of whack in the photos.
To see which part is sticking otherwise you could undo the to 2 top grub screws in the coupler and unscrew the screw right back up through the top (if it will go) then see if the z stage will slide all the way down.
Also I can't see grease on the screw thread though it may be there. It shouldn't stop it but it does need to be greased.
Owen
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I see.
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Nice product and print. I don't think your fan would be that strong. Plus that pattern on the side wouldn't be the fill I don't think. It would be worth showing to Daid if that is Cura to see what he thinks.
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Hi Mark
I have used an optical sensor previously and Birtho uses one now AFAIK. I stopped using mine due to inconsistent leveling though in hind sight it wasn't the sensor's fault.
A few people, me included are using heavier springs now which makes the platform steadier though you lose a bit of Z height.
As for adjusting your Z height in GCode, which I do, you use the M92 command which instructs the UM where any axis is at.
M92 Z0.1 ;Make Z more negative for a bigger gap
Using this takes out the need to have a Z adjusting screw and it's easy to make an exact adjustment.
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I would love to BETA test =)
I'ts available to everyone now at Software download page
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Just got this working in Linux using the latest Cura and CuraEngine heads and I have to say it is amazing! It's fast and simple to use, and best of all the print quality beats the old Skeinforge backend.
One of my biggest problems with the old slicer was the old holes coming out to small and having to fudge models to the right size: http://hydraraptor.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/polyholes.html
I did a print just now with a 5mm diameter circular hole and it came out at 4.5mm. This is a lot better than Skeinforge and the remaining difference may just mean that I need to tweak my machine better.
What are other people's experiences with the printed size of small holes on the new CuraEngine slicer?
Great link there, good to see all the different things that cause hole shrinking in one spot. I just measured a 15mm hole at 14.75mm, which is pretty good. As Daid said the slicer can't make up for all aspects of shrinkage in holes. But they do seem pretty good in Cura.
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Hi Sam
It probably isn't dropping. It's probably not extruding properly for a layer.
Check your tension spring on the material feeder, your bolt on the feeder is clean. Or are you printing too hot or too cold?
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Hi Graeme
In Expert settings increase the skirt count. Or use Brim.
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Hi
Click 'Prepare' if you have that there.
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That's awesome. Best print I've seen here. I would be needing to take a rest after all that CAD work :shock:
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A few ideas to get us started. Personally I like the big bot with the vertical Ultimaker text on the back the most.
First one looks best to me.
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Hello everyone.
I have an issue with leveling the bed. Even if I tighten all the screws, use,A4 paper, and try various options for Z-switch, I have a feeling that its not leveled, and the back part of the bed is always higher than the front one, no matter what I do. When printing pretty large objects (like iPhone case) the first layer sticks to the bed unequally: sticks well in some parts, in others the bed is too high or too low. So its impossible to print. I somehow printed with PLA before even with not perfect first layer, but now I have switched to ABS and its totally impossible. The first layer is spoiled and further layers are printed in the air. I can print some smaller objects though, like ultimaker robot, because its printing square is not so large. So, may this be some mechanical problem? I have a heated bed, but the problem was on non-heated bed as well. Maybe someone could upload a good bed level testing object with rounded corners and so on? I so far had no success in printing the perfect first layer, but first PLA prints were pretty ok. Every help will be much appreciated.
Hi Kazzaqov
Cura has a bed leveling wizzard. Besides that you could just adjust up your front screws 1/8 turn at a time and testing in between with a big print like your iphone. If it fails on first layer stop the print and adjust another 1/8 turn. When it looks right let it finish the print.
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So, is it generally better to have intervals of .02? .14 better than .15 mechanically?
No. It is a theoretically better to go in multiples of 0.001875mm
Zlayers
Thread pitch
3
mm
microsteps per step
8
steps per revolution
200
micro steps per revolution
1600
mm per microstep
0.001875
0.001875 divides nicely into 0.03 so for ease you can go multiples of 0.03 but I'm not sure how much difference it makes. 0.03,0.06,0.09,0.12,0.15,0.18,0.21
I've been mainly going for 0.12 myself and would mainly just go for 0.06 for a finer print.
Finer will always be better though down to a point. Under a certain level the print gets whispy and you can't see the layers and creates more warping.
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I've been using 5% for support setting and making my design to keep support away from a thin vertical wall that it was sticking too firmly too. The overhang is zero degrees 10mm X 10mm corner, so not a bridge and it's has been coming out perfect (printed 6 of the object). It has been very easy to peel away and the surface is almost as good as the top surface.
Melted burned pla over the aluminum heater block
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Hi Ascanio
It looks like you have went over temperature to cause the Peek part to melt like that. You would be best to contact Ultimaker support and see how they can help you out.