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owen

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Posts posted by owen

    Circles ar more like elipses. Fighting with backlash

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi

    You want your belts tight but definitely not tight enough to require much more force to move the extruder by hand. It doen't look like a backlash problem to me. There doesn't appear to be missing steps and your photo doesn't look that skewed. Maybe try using Daid Marlin builder and reburn your firmware from scratch. Also try printing the 20mm test cube from Thingiverse and see what you get.

    Owen

     

    Switching from PLA to ABS: Beginner's guide?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Haven't used ABS myself but I thought 230 was about minimum.

    Also I believe Joegren uses a packing density of 0.97.

    You could just write gcode to squirt about 20mm of filament. Start at 250 Degrees and repeat while lowering the temp by 5 degrees each time until it starts to extrude a bit less. Then choose a temperature 5 or 10 degrees hotter than that.

    In your first print of PLA after maybe go a bit hotter? Also look for posts from Joegren about his printing with it, he has probably written some of the various settings he has used.

     

    Hairy Print

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Perlguy

    That is stringing. Caused by hot plastic oozing out of the nozzle as the printer jumps across a gap to start printing in another spot. You need to turn on retraction in your slicer to prevent this.

     

    Ultimaking could learn from Leapfrog

    in Buying or selling your UltiMaker

    Posted

    UM generally appears to introduce hardware changes when they come up with the right improvement. That is, it needs to be backward compatible, affordable and work. A good example is the V2 hotend. They were offered plenty of ideas from some people with different designs that required a fair bit of change to the machine or may not work that well in the long run etc. Eventually they came up with a different idea to everyone else that totally works. Though some will still argue with that.

    I can see why they would have such a delay with a Hot Bed design. You have to deal with power supply, high current or high voltage wiring and extra electronics for the user to add. You will most likely lose some build height, it won't be cheap and if you don't come up with the ability to get prints to constantly stick you will have many complaints.

     

    Calibration: holes 1.2 mm smaller

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    It's actually not so much shrinkage as you would get it over the whole model and not just the holes. someone explained it here before but basically you will get it more if your circle has less points.

    It is very common and it's usually closer to a fixed amount than a percentage. For example a 30mm diameter hole may come out at 28.6mm, that is 1.4mm less than expected and a 3mm hole comes out at 1.6mm.

    Some slicers may cater for it like slic3r I hear but most others don't seem to.

    You just have to design your model with a bigger hole than you want or get your drill out.

    It only happens with horizontal holes (vertical ones can get it but much less)

    Other things you can do in your designs are make "C" shapes which won't close up as much and have a bit of spring to accommodate whatever shaft etc. that is going in to it.

    One other thing you can do is print a template that has many holes in it from 1mm to 50mm etc. going up in size 1,1.5,2 ... 10,11,12 ... 20,22,24 ... 30,35,40,45,50. Some people have put them on thingiverse.

    Then you measure your holes and record them in a spreadsheet or whatever for future reference when you are designing something.

    I've found when I slice with KISSlicer mine all end up about 1.4mm less diameter so I just go that much bigger plus or minus depending if I want a tight fit.

    Retraction on my second ultimaker ??

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Morning !

    When I use my office ultimaker, and use retraction, it does not matter if it is the smallest details, it will jump no problem.

    But when i try turning on retraction at home with all the same settings, i get massive treading between solid parts and also the quality of the smooth surfaces like walls dont get enough material and to be honest look.... sh..... :-(

    i have setup both ultimakers exactly the same, so i dont really understand why retraction would be so badly failing on the home printer. :-(

    any ideas guys ?

    Ian :D

    Have you got the same frimware?

    Tutorial?

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi Victor

    I don't know of an updated tutorial.

    Apparently one is on the way since the last update.

    I'm looking out for it myself as I can't work out how to put the settings in for destringing.

    This is the link to Netfabb which may help you. http://wiki.netfabb.com/Engine_for_RepRap

    It just isn't up to date there last time I looked.

    This link to a thread on this forum may help you http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?t=1009

    Plus maybe some other threads from blue bot (Paul) http://forum.ultimaker.com/memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=61

    Switch on/off heated bed after printing

    in Improve your 3D prints

    Posted

    I use UM with the Ulticontroller.

    I have a heated bed with an external controller and display. I want to switch it off after printing. To save power and to cool down. How can I do this without connecting a PC to UM?

    Thanks Franz

    Hi fboth

    Look at this http://forum.ultimaker.com/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=1087 post about a suicide switch for the UM. You should be able the plug you HBP into the socket as the UM and switch it off after.

    Print falling over

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Luckily my cats know better/don't care haha. I've been meaning to look into getting another fan during the holidays. I'm just curious where you would plug the second one into?

    You need to wire it into the 1st one. I used a plug and 2 sockets to make a double adaptor

    Print falling over

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Thanks Owen. I'll give KISSlicer a try.

    The printer just got its power unplugged because my dog ran and tripped over it :cry: Going to give the new fanduct a go and see how that goes. Also give KISSlicer a go for the next attempt.

    It's usually cats that are giving the problems around here :roll:

    Steppers in slave mode

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Should be able to put a second one with each coil in series with the same coil of the first motor.

    The stepper driver should still drive them with the same current as determined by the trim pot.

    It will just require more volts to to achieve which is covered by the 19V applied.

    The time taken to reach the current should be a bit longer.

    next UM nozzle ? Wish List

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Finally someone designed what I think is the future for the nozzles. Multi colour in the same nozzle:

    http://www.3ders.org/articles/20120825- ... nting.html

    Would be nice to have it adjusted for the Ultimaker somehow.

    I saw this recently. was amazed.. think about 4 or 5.

    not just because we can but because CMYK!

    about colour printing. (cyan, magenta, yellow, Black/white)

    but needs complicated nozzle integrated mixer.

    all in all we could head towards full colour printing earlier than thought. :mrgreen:

    I think you would need white for the fourth instead of black. The other 3 colours mixed will produce black.

    Beginning extruder movement

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Hi Variador

    Click on 'Ultimaker (volumetric)' in the top right panel

    Click on the 'Machine' tab lower right panel

    Click on the '...' button

    Click on the 'Ultimaker (volumetric) specific' tab

    There you will see 2 boxes where you can set your GCode Footer and Header

    The first movement Netfabb does towards Y is where it scrapes the nozzle clean

    After that it does a long priming ritual

    I like to use 'Outline' for the Raft Type (on the Print Tab) which is a good amount of priming

    Here are my Footer and Header

     

    M190 S85 ; Turn HBP OnG21 ;mm as unitsM92 E866 ; orig = 866G90 ;Absolute PositioningG28 ;HomeG92 Z-0.7 E-5 ;Define current Z position - Make Z more negative for looser bondG1 Z0 F5000 ;Move Z to zeroM109 S%maxtemp1 ;Set Temp and waitG1 E0 F500 ;prime the chamber with filament

     

     

    G92 E-5 ; Define current E positionG1 E0 F500 ; Retract filament from ChamberM140 S0 ; Turn HBP OffM84 ;Disable Motors

     

    The G92 Z-0.7 command is to set my platform height so don't use that on your own machine as it will be different

    Also I have Heated build platform settings which are a bit high as my thermistor readings on that are a bit low plus you wouldn't want those if you don't have a HBP

    These are my settings on the 'General Settings' Tab

    Connection with ReplicatorG

    in UltiMaker Cura

    Posted

    Thanks for the reply Owen. I did try 26 but not as thoroughly as the newest one.

    26 was the one I had been using the whole time since my Ultimaker was new.

    Would it have to use different firmware from Cura and Netfabb? Probably, but I don't know.

    Cura and Netfabb are becoming more reliable for me. It wouldn't be worth having to switch firmware every time I wanted to use RepG.

    No you don't have to use different firmware. Repg 26 connects easier and doesn't have some of the other problems that RepG 34/35 have, like not recognizing M190 S70 to turn on your heat bed etc. If you are going to use repG than 26 is the version to use. You need to pick the right firmware in the menus and correct Com port and baud rate as well.

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