[Print issue with heated bed]

When you are struggling to get your prints to stick on glass it's hard to make them stick without getting this 'Elephant's foot'. When you raise your nozzle slightly you avoid this but then you start to get lifting off the bed and/or the bottom surface not totally filled. Kapton sticks better than glass but isn't as nice to use so you can more easily avoid this but you have the other trade offs, takes longer to be able to remove your print, you have to replace your tape periodically, especially if your bed isn't perfectly level and the nozzle bights into it.

 

[Throw away your short belts - direct drive.]

The original ebay link for the couplers has expired. Would these be a good option, or is there a better retention mechanism?

http://www.adafruit.com/products/1176

 

I'd say they would be OK.

I got some that have a single screw onto each shaft that look like that and it seems to work fine.

Only done the Y motor so far (for a month or 2 now)

I've just finished my X motor bracket so I think I'll put it on today.

 

[HOW-TO: Build your own Marlin]

Those fixes are in both the Ultimaker and the ErikZalm Ultimaker_v1 current versions of the firmware, so you can get them (if you want them) by building your own Marlin from either of those.

 

Thanks mate, I'll do that.

 

[HOW-TO: Build your own Marlin]

Awesome work once again Simon. Thanks very much. I'm fairly OK with using the Arduino software etc. but if I run into trouble I'm sure your blog will help me out.

One question though does the version of Marlin with Cura have the fix you submitted for retraction?

 

[3DSystems CubeX Looks Cool]

Hi Bill

After you click on My Gallery, there's a link around the middle that says upload

 

[Looking for beta testers.]

I'm hanging to test it Daid.

 

[Terrible First Layer]

I think your platform may not be real level.

Zero your platform and then using a piece of paper under the nozzle at all four corners adjust the screw so it takes a bit of pull to pull the paper out from under the nozzle. Do it for all 4 corners and go around again.

 

[Does the DIY kit come with a heated bed?]

Hi Ascanio

You need to build a HBP yourself. Best way is to look through the forum here and here https://groups.google.com/forum/#!forum/ultimaker there is much written and many different ways of doing it. There is a variety of heating boards you can use as well. Ultimaker is in the process of designing one but there is no ETA yet.

 

[Netfabb extruding way too quickly]

Okay, thanks Owen.

I haven't played with Netfabb much at all yet, because I haven't had the time to figure it out yet. I like that it is more customizable in print settings than Cura, but it is not very intuitive, and the lack of tool tips make it a pain to get going quickly.

Do any of our Ultimaker gurus here have some print profile settings they could start me out with?

It seems to be overextruding for me as well. Very visible on the first couple layers of perimiter passes, where you can observe a bunch of overlap.

 

Hi Lars

I couldn't upload a file. So here is the text of UltraFilled.reprapbuildstyle

 

<root>

<name>09: Ultra quality - FILLED OBJECT</name>

<outercontourwidth>fine</outercontourwidth>

<minregionarea>0.30000001192093</minregionarea>

<maxcontourlayers>2</maxcontourlayers>

<upskinminwidth>3</upskinminwidth>

<downskinminwidth>3</downskinminwidth>

<fillingangle>45</fillingangle>

<upskinangle>45</upskinangle>

<downskinangle>45</downskinangle>

<upskinlayers>20</upskinlayers>

<downskinlayers>16</downskinlayers>

<fillspacing>-0.125</fillspacing>

<upskinfillspacing>-0.34999999403954</upskinfillspacing>

<downskinfillspacing>-0.34999999403954</downskinfillspacing>

<upskinfeaturesize>0</upskinfeaturesize>

<downskinfeaturesize>0</downskinfeaturesize>

<supportcalculationlayerthickness>0</supportcalculationlayerthickness>

<supportdefaultangle>35</supportdefaultangle>

<supportstrongangle>40</supportstrongangle>

<supportweakangle>30</supportweakangle>

<supportdefaultspacing>1.5</supportdefaultspacing>

<supportstrongspacing>1</supportstrongspacing>

<supportweakspacing>2</supportweakspacing>

<supportminimumdiameter>0.5</supportminimumdiameter>

<supportlayerdistanceondownskin>1</supportlayerdistanceondownskin>

<supportlayerdistanceonupskin>0</supportlayerdistanceonupskin>

<supporttransitionlayercount>15</supporttransitionlayercount>

<supportpartconnectionlayercount>6</supportpartconnectionlayercount>

<minimalhatchlength>0.80000001192093</minimalhatchlength>

<supportfluffoverlap>3</supportfluffoverlap>

<supportpartlockvolumeoffset>2</supportpartlockvolumeoffset>

<regiondefinition1_outercontour>

<filamentdefinition>half_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>snake</speed>

<width>fine</width>

<widthfactor>1</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_outercontour>

<regiondefinition1_filling>

<filamentdefinition>default_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>medium</speed>

<width>medium</width>

<widthfactor>1</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_filling>

<regiondefinition1_upskin>

<filamentdefinition>default_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>slow</speed>

<width>thin</width>

<widthfactor>0.75</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_upskin>

<regiondefinition1_downskin>

<filamentdefinition>default_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>slow</speed>

<width>fine</width>

<widthfactor>0.85000002384186</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_downskin>

<regiondefinition1_innercontour1>

<filamentdefinition>default_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>slow</speed>

<width>fine</width>

<widthfactor>1</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_innercontour1>

<regiondefinition1_support>

<filamentdefinition>default_layersize</filamentdefinition>

<speed>slow</speed>

<width>fine</width>

<widthfactor>1</widthfactor>

</regiondefinition1_support>

<regiondefinition>

<name>Normal</name>

<minarea>-1</minarea>

<maxarea>-1</maxarea>

<zjumpoffset>0</zjumpoffset>

<id>5</id>

<temperature_scale>1</temperature_scale>

<upskintype>1</upskintype>

<downskintype>1</downskintype>

<seamtype>0</seamtype>

<outercontour>regiondefinition1_outercontour</outercontour>

<filling>regiondefinition1_filling</filling>

<upskin>regiondefinition1_upskin</upskin>

<downskin>regiondefinition1_downskin</downskin>

<innercontour1>regiondefinition1_innercontour1</innercontour1>

<support>regiondefinition1_support</support>

</regiondefinition>

<override>

<name>support1</name>

<speed>1.39999997615814</speed>

<extruder>0.30000001192093</extruder>

</override>

<override>

<name>support2</name>

<speed>1.20000004768372</speed>

<extruder>0.5</extruder>

</override>

<override>

<name>support3</name>

<speed>1</speed>

<extruder>1</extruder>

</override>

<override>

<name>support4</name>

<speed>1</speed>

<extruder>1</extruder>

</override>

<regionselection>

<type>bylayer</type>

<threshold>3</threshold>

<item>

<type>useregion</type>

<regionid>5</regionid>

<temperature>100</temperature>

<heatedbed>100</heatedbed>

<fancontrol>0</fancontrol>

<speedoverride>50</speedoverride>

<extruderoverride>100</extruderoverride>

</item>

<item>

<type>useregion</type>

<regionid>5</regionid>

<temperature>100</temperature>

<heatedbed>100</heatedbed>

<fancontrol>100</fancontrol>

<speedoverride>100</speedoverride>

<extruderoverride>100</extruderoverride>

</item>

</regionselection>

</root>

[Netfabb extruding way too quickly]

Does that mean that this does not apply?

http://wiki.netfabb.com/Calibration_of_Engine_for_RepRap

 

Yep, that doesn't apply for Volumetric and probably no one uses the Non-Volumetric anymore.

 

[HOW TO Measure Current from the UltiSteppen]

There is only a very small solder pad which is hard to get to. It gives a voltage that is proportional to the current. Last time I looked for it on data sheets for the Pololu board I couldn't find it.

 

[Maximum extrusion rates and systematic under extrusion]

Great work Simon.

The graph at the end says it all.

Thanks for your effort.

 

[dual extrusion Marlin build]

Hi Calum

 

So I am guessing that "TEMP_SENSOR_0" is what I would refer to as the "old" primary extruder....and that

the new 2nd extruder temp will be "TEMP_SENSOR-1"

 

Correct

 

one starts at Zero

 

Quite common in computer stuff

 

[New user, new problems]

Hi Jack

If you look at the end of the shafts at the top of your machine you see limit switches at the end of some of those which you can push the lever and you'll here a click. I gather it is talking about them.

 

[Optimal Manual Settings]

Hi James

The quickest way to see some finer results is print a bit slower. Other than that you could try a layer size of 0.06. You can look through the forum to see what settings other people have used on there prints. After that though it's really experimenting. Different models benefit from different settings.

 

[Divide and conquer or divide and lose?]

Hi Jelle

If you use http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?app=core&module=search&do=viewNewContent&search_app=forums

as your link it shows all your unread posts with no Sections or Sub Forums to worry about. Is that what you are after or something else?

 

[Replacement Motors]

Hi owen,

which exact stepper did you take in the end? i am looking for a replacement, too.

a link would b great!

regards

ji

 

Hi ji

I already had these ones here http://www.mendel-parts.com/index.php/stepper-motor-nema17-incl-molex-connector.html so I used them.

They have the shaft coming out the back which isn't needed.

I think the stepper motors in the Ulti are bigger now than back then as well but not sure.

 

[Post your latest print!]

Here you go Ian http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:22734

 

[Installing a new Sterpperdriver]

Hi ji11

you won't blow your stepper motor if it goes wrong you'll blow the driver board

You can look up the spec sheet for the driver and it shows a pin that you can measure a voltage from that is proportional to the current. It's quite hard to get to though.

Easier to follow the wiki and adjust in very small increments going by sound. The stepper motor growls when too high and misses steps when it's too low.

Important not to turn it up too high. The driver board will blow very quickly, believe me I know :-|.

 

[Distributors of Special 3D Printing Filaments]

Great work corngolem

Thanks for your efforts.

 

[Something wrong during slicing...]

I could if I could work out how to attach files here. Any idea?

 

[Something wrong during slicing...]

Hi Elbozo

They slice up in Netfabb no problem once it was oriented to sit on it's back on the platform.

The clips won't print great without support due to the 90 degree overhang.

 

[The Myth of Z Speed... (or, at least, strange Z defaults)]

Hi illuminarti

Thanks for your efforts. I read your blog, good one.

I have a question

Do you think it would be beneficial or not to skip the microstepping for the z motor as long as you chose suitable layer heights?

 

[Bad surface on printed parts]

Hi 70mm/s is faster than what I usually print at (50 mm/s) but you should be able to do it no worries. I'd check your hobbed bolt is clean and in the right spot and the thumb screw is adjusted for good grip but not too much. Your temperature sounds OK but you could try at 220-230 for that speed.

 

[Smoke... Is it normal ?]

Hi Elbozo

I'd just print something else and see if it keeps leaking. It may stop and you won't have to take it apart. Also you could go as low as 190 just for taking it apart.